Greetings,

Here is my problem. I have a 1986 110 with a 2.5 diesel in it. As I'm driving down the road it will just quit running. It started last summer doing this but only a few times. Now it happens almost everytime I'm out. A few nights ago I was stuck 2 hrs away and would not run at all. It will turn over but will not run. I did make it home, but not before i had to run a new wire to the fuel switch and hook it to the battery. Now vehicle will run and stay running until I turn off the new switch. I believe I have a problem in the starter switch but am wondering if anyone has had this problem before and If so what did you do to repair?

Thanks in advance,
David

 

When you say 'fuel switch' do you mean the stop solenoid in the injection pump?

 

Yes, the fuel stop solenoid on the pump. As long as i have power to the solenoid it stays running.

 

Yup - sounds like a short in the wiring for the ignition lock, or the lock itself.

Try re-crimping the connector for the original wiring to the stop solenoid as a first port of call - a new crimp should set you back... oooh... £0.02 or so

 

Thanks Adz, I'll do that. The switch its self is rather stiff. I have to bring the key back when I start otherwise the glowplugs stay on. I have tried putting some lube in the keyway but this has not helped. With this also happening would it be best to just replace the lock set?

Thanks again,
David

 

Don't use oil to lube locks - only ever use graphite powder and then very sparingly. If re-crimping the stop solenoid wire fixes the problem then cleaning the ignition lock with a can of compressed dry air and lubing it with a little graphite should mean you don't need to replace it. If it's still stiff or sticky, then you know what to do next

 

I had a similar but different problem with my Tdi. It would lose power after running a long distance and then only limp home on very small throttle opening. Bleeding the air out of the filter helped but only till the next time.

The diesel filter was filling with air sucked in along the fuel line somewhere but no fuel was leaking out of the fuel line, hence the leak must be above the fuel tank level.

The fuel lift pump had been changed and the fuel lines secured by hose clips instead of the original ferrules. Although the input hose clip appeared tight it was nevertheless leaking air into the system before the pump and this air was collecting inside the fuel filter quicker than the normal circulation could clear it.

 

Fyko, that would mean the leak is on the low pressure side of the lift pump - i.e. between pump and tank. If it's between pump and filter you'll get fuel leakage.

Cheers,