[HELP] Center Differential Lock
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Eugene, OR
Hey, Calebbo, If you're still on this thread... I found it, no tab on it like yours, 11mm wrench, 1/4 turn, click & done! Great! Made my day!Thanks again!
PS now of course, I'll have to find a linkage and do the install...
PS now of course, I'll have to find a linkage and do the install...
Baja
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Dude did you forget everything I told you about the CDL?
Have you looked at my pics in my signature?
The best source of the correct parts and a great Illustrated Parts breakdown/ exploded view is ?????
ROVERS NORTH. How many times must I post that same info?
Did you do a search for the loads of info I have already posted on this site?
Come on recruit. And do not tell your new Marine soon-to-be-friends how badly you let them rivets get you the first time.
Looking at your picture of that bottom plate, you need to thoroughly clean it first.
How do all those little pins and clips look?
Got any PB Blaster?
Spray , soak, spray soak, spray soak
You should not tear into it as was suggested unless the suggestors have actually done that and were successful.
It took me using Speed Handle and extensions and a good bit of arm muscle, then the entire linkage moved as I was attempting to remove that bolt.
Take a look thru the hundreds of pics in my link. I took the whole top box off and fully apart trying to figure it out. You can but do not have to.
If the top box is rusty, then tear it down, clean and put back together. When I finished mine I packed it full of Red Lucas Synthetic Tractor Grease and added an additional rubber seal over that box that was actually a roof vent gasket for a plumbing vent with a flexible aluminum plate that is normally nailed to the roof of a house. I formed mine, cut a hole in the top of it small enough to slip over the shifter shaft and that will help keep oput water if you go fording (crossing water) off-road.
The only pieces I replaced were that piece with the internal splines at the top where yours was left unbolted and all the little clevis pins and locking clips due to advanced corrosion.
A good cleaning, spraying with PB Blaster and some arm muscle is all that you really need to get it moving. Use finesse combined with arm strength.
Don't let your future Drill Instuctor know how bad this linkage has been whipping you Recruit!
Have you looked at my pics in my signature?
The best source of the correct parts and a great Illustrated Parts breakdown/ exploded view is ?????
ROVERS NORTH. How many times must I post that same info?
Did you do a search for the loads of info I have already posted on this site?
Come on recruit. And do not tell your new Marine soon-to-be-friends how badly you let them rivets get you the first time.
Looking at your picture of that bottom plate, you need to thoroughly clean it first.
How do all those little pins and clips look?
Got any PB Blaster?
Spray , soak, spray soak, spray soak
You should not tear into it as was suggested unless the suggestors have actually done that and were successful.
It took me using Speed Handle and extensions and a good bit of arm muscle, then the entire linkage moved as I was attempting to remove that bolt.
Take a look thru the hundreds of pics in my link. I took the whole top box off and fully apart trying to figure it out. You can but do not have to.
If the top box is rusty, then tear it down, clean and put back together. When I finished mine I packed it full of Red Lucas Synthetic Tractor Grease and added an additional rubber seal over that box that was actually a roof vent gasket for a plumbing vent with a flexible aluminum plate that is normally nailed to the roof of a house. I formed mine, cut a hole in the top of it small enough to slip over the shifter shaft and that will help keep oput water if you go fording (crossing water) off-road.
The only pieces I replaced were that piece with the internal splines at the top where yours was left unbolted and all the little clevis pins and locking clips due to advanced corrosion.
A good cleaning, spraying with PB Blaster and some arm muscle is all that you really need to get it moving. Use finesse combined with arm strength.
Don't let your future Drill Instuctor know how bad this linkage has been whipping you Recruit!
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; Apr 23, 2012 at 05:17 PM.
Awh Danny come on, don't be so harsh on me hahaha
Well here's what I've done so far.
See that little metal piece at the top of the yoke? (the yoke is that half dirty half clean
silver thing the center nut is sitting on)
Here it is that same metal piece (it's like a U or C shaped metal piece connecting the bottom of the linkage to the top of the transfer case) and I removed it.
After removing that metal C or U shaped piece I turned the nut hoping it would engage my transfer case. Well it turns left and right but I don't get any light or anything saying my CDL engaged. I had one wheel jacked up and tried turning it and it spins so I KNOW it is not engaged. Any ideas? I called Danny and he says to take out the shifter and clean that thing up and also on top of the transfer case where the nut is (first picture where all that gunk is, how should I do that? Simple green the mess out of it and fit my pressure washer and spray from the inside out?)
I've got a video coming in a second.
Well here's what I've done so far.
See that little metal piece at the top of the yoke? (the yoke is that half dirty half clean
silver thing the center nut is sitting on)
Here it is that same metal piece (it's like a U or C shaped metal piece connecting the bottom of the linkage to the top of the transfer case) and I removed it.
After removing that metal C or U shaped piece I turned the nut hoping it would engage my transfer case. Well it turns left and right but I don't get any light or anything saying my CDL engaged. I had one wheel jacked up and tried turning it and it spins so I KNOW it is not engaged. Any ideas? I called Danny and he says to take out the shifter and clean that thing up and also on top of the transfer case where the nut is (first picture where all that gunk is, how should I do that? Simple green the mess out of it and fit my pressure washer and spray from the inside out?)
I've got a video coming in a second.
TReK
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,776
Likes: 623
From: NYC
To clarify....clockwise should lock the center dif. counter clockwise should un-lock it. There is a switch (a plunger) which detects whether the diff is engaged and illuminates the light on the dash accordingly. Some have suggested that switch can become frozen, preventing the mechanism from moving the dog gear into position.
The view in this video would be as if you were looking at it from the left (driver's side in USA).
LT230 Difflock Mechanism - YouTube
The view in this video would be as if you were looking at it from the left (driver's side in USA).
LT230 Difflock Mechanism - YouTube
I'm about to run outside to the school parking lot and try it LOL. And if it doesn't engage what is my next step? Remove the three bolts around the center nut and look at that? I don't care about the linkage just yet I just want to know my transfer case is working.
TReK
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,776
Likes: 623
From: NYC
Next...remove the switch and make sure the plunger moves freely. There is a spacer on it to make sure the body of the switch does not thread too far into the chamber and impede the mechanism and only the plunger is low enough to touch it.
Last edited by WaltNYC; Apr 23, 2012 at 12:40 PM.