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[HELP] Center Differential Lock

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  #31  
Old 04-24-2012, 07:22 AM
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The one thing that stands out in my memory is that when mine did "break loose" I was actually attempting to loosen that center nut on the selector plate with the link still attached. I had a 1/2 drive speedhandle and extensions with the socket squarely seated on the 13mm nut, when I overcame the resistance, instead of the nut turning, the top portion of the cdl shifter lurched from the unlocked position and struck my leg as it moved unexpectedly to the locked position!

Afterwards I did replace the switch due to a frozen plunger. This completed the repair/fix and returned complete as designed functionality.

The entire mechanism was filthy with off-road mud residue and corrosion binding it up. All of these things contributed to the "frozen" inoperable condition. A thorough cleaning, replacement of the small pieces that were degraded, and application of the Lucas waterproof synthetic Heavy Duty Tractor grease restored the functionality.

It is a poor design that allows all the crud to affect such a vital system. I added an additional item over the top box using a common plumbing roofing vent seal over the top to help shed any water or other contaminants from ending up in the mechanism.

If anyone can add any further information, please do.

I really enjoy the way mine works so well 4 and 1/2 years later.
 

Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 04-25-2012 at 08:04 PM.
  #32  
Old 04-24-2012, 04:29 PM
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Well I got the linkage off finally and i have it sitting in rustoleum. I'm "trying" to cut an access panel in my passenger side of the console near their feet. Using super snips is a PITA is there an easier way to cut sheet metal? Angle grinder? Propane torch? Lol
 
  #33  
Old 04-25-2012, 10:12 AM
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Here is the diagram from Rover's North. The blue circle indicates the pivot point. Given the connection to the nut in question is forward of that nut, I'd say that clockwise from the top will lock the CDL. I've never been in there so I can't say from first hand experience as Danny is able, but that is how I'd read this diagram.

Your CDL switch is highlighted in green and goes where the large green arrow points.



I've circled (in red) the CDL switch in your picture.

 
  #34  
Old 04-25-2012, 10:27 AM
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Thanks for the explanation.

I believe it is my shifter, once I removed the linkage I expected to be able to move the shifter left and right very easily but that was not the case. I'll post a video later, I'm at school "learning" right now.
 

Last edited by calebbo; 04-25-2012 at 10:33 AM.
  #35  
Old 04-25-2012, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by WaltNYC
Here is the diagram from Rover's North. The blue circle indicates the pivot point. Given the connection to the nut in question is forward of that nut, I'd say that clockwise from the top will lock the CDL. I've never been in there so I can't say from first hand experience as Danny is able, but that is how I'd read this diagram.

Your CDL switch is highlighted in green and goes where the large green arrow points.



I've circled (in red) the CDL switch in your picture.

Yup, it is definitely clockwise to lock.

I just went into mine last night cause it was completely frozen in 4H-unlocked. I couldnt get the CDL arm off cause the pins were totally rusted in there. However, unbolting the box and removing the clamp on the gear gave me enough play to get it unstuck along with alot of PB-ing.

Moving the stick left, which moves the wheel clockwise, makes the diff light go on. Moving right makes it turn off.

Now I just have to charge my battery so I can start the car and see if I can get into 4L
 
  #36  
Old 04-25-2012, 11:28 AM
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Gosh looks like I'm going to unbolt the shifter. If I take out the bolts does it just pull out? The linkage is off and I can get the linkage that shifts the hi and low function off the spline. I just want to make sure before I yank it out.
 
  #37  
Old 04-25-2012, 11:49 AM
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Yup that should be it.

remove:
4 bolts, spline clamp, CDL linkage upper pin (if you can)
 

Last edited by pinkytoe69; 04-25-2012 at 11:53 AM.
  #38  
Old 04-25-2012, 08:05 PM
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Cut an "access hole."

[FOR DANNY] The Dimensions are 5" x 4" (3.5" actual)



Took off the shifter

Before I cleaned out that gunk with a degreaser


Does that pin holding this eye-hole come out somehow?




Now the shifter, linkage, all the nuts and screws and washers are all sitting in a bucket of rustoleum for de-rustification. Will report back later. My main thing now is the shifter won't move to the left all the way. Can somebody post a video of how far it's supposed to move?

Oh yeah, here's the shifter

Normal View as If you Just pulled it out


Under View


Close up of the under view

These are pics before the rustoleum.
 
  #39  
Old 04-25-2012, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by calebbo
Now the shifter linkage, all the nuts and screws and washers are all sitting in a bucket of rustoleum for de-rustification. Will report back later. My main thing now is the shifter won't move to the left all the way. Can somebody post a video of how far it's supposed to move?
It doesnt move much...inch or so. You can see on the diagram that the lever point on the linkage is closer to the shifter connection than the CDL plate one, so the shifter does not have to travel far to turn the plate enough to engage.
 
  #40  
Old 04-25-2012, 09:07 PM
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Yeah that's what i noticed but I wasn't sure if mine was screwed up or something. Danny said it's supposed to move like 6 inches..

I made a video of me moving my shifter and I'll post it once it uploads on Youtube so you guys can tell for yourselves if my shifter is jacked up.
 

Last edited by calebbo; 04-25-2012 at 09:10 PM.


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