With these Discoverys and cooling issues combined with how damaging an overheat could be, does anybody use a 160 degree stat? I replace my water pump and thermostat with a brand everybody says to get rid of and I think I believe them. I bought a Motorad 180 but I’m still getting hot. Definitely on a hot day it’ll get up to 206. If I’m going up a steep hill it’s gotten to 215 before I turned around. I’m going to be replacing the fan clutch to see if that helps too.

just curious about a Failsafe 160 stat from auto zone. Thanks guys!

 

I have a 180 t-stat and i don’t think I’ve ever seen it go over 205F. We have very long steep highways here and the ambient temperature can be over 35C. I don’t know the t-stat brand but I got it from roverguy.com. I don’t think you need to go to a 160.

 

The 160F thermostat will just open faster, but generally overall engine temp will still eventually reach critical levels if something in the system isn't up to spec. Also opening that cold usually isn't good for MPG or emissions, but if you're gonna run that low of a thermostat you might as well just run around without one to be honest.

 

before you go to far, check and see what the actual temp is and not by what the OBDII says, or what it says on the dash gauge. They are all massivly inaccurate. Fought with my 99 D1 for almost a year replacing parts left and right until I found the factory temp gauge readings were WRONG. when I thought it was too hot, it was barely warm. Get a good infra-red thermometer and take your own readings.

 

I had both a dead fan clutch and sh1tty radiator cause issues on 2 different d1's recently. Worth a look into those

 

i actually just changed my fan clutch and all my issues are fixed! Took it four wheeling up trails in 97 degree heat, full A/c, max temp was 196. Loved it. Before my temps would slowly and consistently raise past 215 without stopping unless I turned heat on high. Amazing how a seemingly insignificant part can make all the difference! Thanks!

 

2 years later response, but I had similar issues as you described with my D1. I decided this month to throw everything I could at it, with wonderful results. I went from 185-210 (210 being the hottest day idle with AC on max) to 160-175 range. It currently operates at about 160 under normal conditions and moderate outdoor temps.

For the money, I think the biggest bang for my buck was the Chevy Blazer fan, water pump upgrade and 160 temp sensor change. From another write up, they mentioned the Blazer fan moves about 40% more air than the LR stock. I don’t know how to measure if that’s true, but from my operations, the airflow improvements are massive. Also notable, I didn’t trim the fan blades, I just never replaced the fan shroud. It’s been working great.

Here’s my list:

Rebuilt upper engine and new head gaskets.
Change from 180 degree coolant sensor to 160.
New various sensors that have to do with reading temps like oil, coolant, fuel, etc.
New radiator
New Manifold flange gaskets
Wrapped my manifold (cheap Amazon wrap)
Upgraded FlowKooler water pump
Upgraded to Chevy Blazer fan w/ new fan clutch

 

Not really necessary. Just get the 180 stat and there's a compatible Chevy fan clutch that activates lower. Mine almost never crests 185

 

From what i have read, the "failsafe" thermostat opens up at rated temp and doesn't close. it needs to be replaced. Not a good idea for a day to day driver, not sure why they would even sell them to put in a daily driver.

 

I run a 160 T-Stat. I also have a newer radiator, a heavy duty fan clutch and I have removed the AC condenser. I can run offroad all day and not see 180. But then again, I don't daily drive it and it is my offroad rig.