1994 Disco I: No Ignition
It never ends! I just replaced my Bosch ignition coil with an Edelbrock universal. First start was okay, it was missing for a while but then straightened up. Next day, it just wont turn over. I put the old ignition coil back in but no dice. The ignition wire is quite old (I ordered a new one just to be sure), but I didn't have any problems before I replaced the coil. I know I have fuel because I just replaced the fuel pump and I can smell it, I even took out a spark plug and it was absolutely soaked. I checked the MAF harness and all the connections (including battery) and everything seems ok. No codes on the display either. I guess this is why they say don't fix what ain't broke. What could be causing this? could a new coil blow out an old wire? Has anyone else had this issue?
Last edited by PrinceDisco; Mar 22, 2021 at 04:57 PM.
Just to be clear when you say it won't turn over, do you mean that it won't crank (starter not engaging) or that the engine won't run (cranks but no start)?
I think checking the king lead (coil to distributor) is a good start. Have you triple checked you've attached the coil wires back to the correct sides of the coil?
If you have a volt meter I would start by checking:
- Continuity of the kind lead (0 or very low ohms on your vmeter)
- That you're getting +12v at the coil (coil + to ground in the engine bay) when the key is on "position II"
If you have both of those, then you might consider if your distributor amplifier is working. It is mounted on the distributor and receives the wires from the coil. Perhaps the strength of the new coil messed up an amplifier on it's last legs?
Good luck!
I think checking the king lead (coil to distributor) is a good start. Have you triple checked you've attached the coil wires back to the correct sides of the coil?
If you have a volt meter I would start by checking:
- Continuity of the kind lead (0 or very low ohms on your vmeter)
- That you're getting +12v at the coil (coil + to ground in the engine bay) when the key is on "position II"
If you have both of those, then you might consider if your distributor amplifier is working. It is mounted on the distributor and receives the wires from the coil. Perhaps the strength of the new coil messed up an amplifier on it's last legs?
Good luck!
Just to be clear when you say it won't turn over, do you mean that it won't crank (starter not engaging) or that the engine won't run (cranks but no start)?
I think checking the king lead (coil to distributor) is a good start. Have you triple checked you've attached the coil wires back to the correct sides of the coil?
If you have a volt meter I would start by checking:
- Continuity of the kind lead (0 or very low ohms on your vmeter)
- That you're getting +12v at the coil (coil + to ground in the engine bay) when the key is on "position II"
If you have both of those, then you might consider if your distributor amplifier is working. It is mounted on the distributor and receives the wires from the coil. Perhaps the strength of the new coil messed up an amplifier on it's last legs?
Good luck!
I think checking the king lead (coil to distributor) is a good start. Have you triple checked you've attached the coil wires back to the correct sides of the coil?
If you have a volt meter I would start by checking:
- Continuity of the kind lead (0 or very low ohms on your vmeter)
- That you're getting +12v at the coil (coil + to ground in the engine bay) when the key is on "position II"
If you have both of those, then you might consider if your distributor amplifier is working. It is mounted on the distributor and receives the wires from the coil. Perhaps the strength of the new coil messed up an amplifier on it's last legs?
Good luck!
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