Having the hardest time with this. Have parts cannoned this and still haven't gotten anywhere.

Cap, Leads, Plugs
New IAC
New Vacuum Hoses
Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner
Cleaned throttle body
Fuel Pump

What am I missing

Car ran fine then sputtered and died at idle while driving down driveway. Had to push it in. Now it starts up runs at about 2200 and then after a bit tries to find idle and just sputters and dies.
Happy to post a video if people think it will help

 

Have you reset the Adaptive Values?

 

95 doesn't have adaptive values really. It's a 14CUX so basically just disconnect the battery for about 15sec then reconnect. First key cycle you should get a 02 on the LED read out under the seat. After you cycle key off wait for relay to click, then second key cycle it should now be blank. It sure sounds like either the IAC isn't in the same position as the old one (you can usually trick it to move if but it can be a PITA), or your MAF is dead or not connected. If you give it any gas will it run, or just always die?

 

My apologies. Rad right past the 95.

 

If i give it gas it will run but when I take my foot off the pedal the car starts to want to idle and then dies.

I have a MAF on order and will replace it and see if that helps.

 

I believe it should still run with MAF fully disconnected. If MAF is giving bogus output it could lead to the issue you're seeing.
I'm with Best4x4 sounds like an air control issue.
Just to check the story and sequence of events, when it "died", would it not restart? What actions did you take to get it to restart and idle breifly before dying?
It is possible you fixed the original issue but inadveredly messed something up with parts cannoning...

 

Has the distributor ever been serviced? The centrifugal weights and springs may need cleaning and lubrication, if they got gunked up, like mine did. Or worse if the springs popped off. Service manual recommends periodically added a drop of oil. Good to get new cap and rotor while in there. Voice of experience: lifting the rotor causes the springs or weights to move out of position. Hold the stem down with something, then lift the rotor.

In addition, the vacuum advance diaphragm can fail. I am on my third vacuum advance unit. Easy test to see if it holds vacuum or just leaks through. If it's bad, don't get the cheap alternative, get the one for the three-wire amplifier (costs $100 more). The cheap one is not quite the right length and the spring tension is not right. Good time to check timing while you're at it.

Hope this helps.

 

Starts up fine. I unplugged MAF and car runs and hunts for idle and then after a little bit dies. With MAF plugged in it runs slightly better then after a little bit tries to idle and then dies. I replaced the fuel filter today as well. I have a new MAF and a new distributor coming Tuesday. the distributor is the 3 wire amplifier and I got an adapter to go from 3 wire to 2 wire.

car seems to run fine when i put a small amount of throttle, got a backfire when I got it over 4500 rpm.

Will follow up on Tuesday.

 

Thinking this over, good to check and set base idle.

Procedure involves blocking the IACV flow path, then starting engine to set idle using the bypass screw. The base idle bypass screw is under a small aluminum cap that can be drilled and pulled out. If engine dies or doesn't start, turn CCW (more air) until it runs about 500 - 550 rpm. If that passage got blocked, it might explain your symptoms. The passage holes can be seen on the right side of the throttle plate, one before, one after. If it can't run when IACV path is blocked, then it could be difficult for the IACV to function successfully.

Also would check base timing, but obviously needs to idle for that. You'll need to set timing with a new distributor anyway. Spec is 5 deg btdc, but could be set up to 10. Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance

No codes under the right side seat?

 

I will look into manually setting the idle. I have set timing at 6btc with the distributor after I did the Valve Cover gaskets and truck ran fine. Will do so again.

Good idea with seeing if the IACV path is blocked. I'll look at that now.

I did mess up when setting the timing as I didn't block the vacuum just unhooked it. I am still learning and mistakes have been made! Thanks for the input.

UPDATE: Just cleaned up the paths that were pretty dirty. Got the truck to idle long enough but still drops to a really low idle 100rpm before either stalling or i have to shut it off.