JohnZo, I just rechecked test 3 and had the same results. However what seems to keep being missed is the first paragraph in test three has you perform that same test with the key off which should be 0V but I am getting battery voltage, then says to turn the key on and should still be 0V.

 

Mine reads 12.5 V with the key off and 0.21 V key on, Batt Pos to LV coil (either terminal). Seems there is an error in the Test 3 diagram.

I think the voltage to check for Test 3 should actually be across the coil low voltage terminals +ve and -ve. That way the results would be as written in the manual, zero volts key off or on. Test 3 then checks the coil low voltage circuit and the amplifier module. What do you measure across the LV coil terminals when cranking?

One thought I had is that your gap at the reluctor is at the wide limit specification (0.35 mm). I set mine at the low limit specification, 0.20 mm and it runs great.

 

My read of the stream above is that you are indeed "passing" Test 3. 0.2V or so would be close enough to 0 volts. As JohnZo mentions, the instruction is to measure voltage relative to the positive battery connection, so if you are getting battery voltage at the negative terminal relative to ground that is equivalent to "0 volts" relative to battery positive.

Not sure if it is helpful but can I ask why you believe you are not getting spark from the HT lead? Have you confirmed that empirically?

Just a FYI that I believe there are a "bad batch" of distributors on the market. Rover's North had a bad lot a few months back and I received a bad one from Rimmer (who I'm sure shares supplier with many outfits). In my case I was given a distributor with 6 reluctor teeth instead of 8. Another one I purchased had a bad amplifier out of the box.

Personally for 14CUX diagnosis I prefer the tests laid out in the old range rover manuals. Same system, same components. Better detail and explanation in my view. Fuel injection system diagnostics start on PDF page 173: http://www.landy.ee/manuals/cars/rrc...52USWM%20A.pdf

Finally, a few months ago as part of my troubleshooting I made the attached diagram to show myself where everything connects up. Not for diagnostics but to help layout fuses, relays, etc. associated with a non-start on 14CUX.

 

Key off I have .002 volts across the coil terminals, key on I have .2 volts. When cranking it jumps from .2 to .6V across the coil. The distributor does have 8 contacts on the reluctor. The gap does seem to be on the high side at .035 but I need to get a non magnetic gauge and check it again. Testing for spark I have both used a spark tester and run the lead to the motor and saw no spark. I will check the link to the manual you sent along with the wiring 94Disco1. Thank you both for your replies!!!

 

You can use a regular gap gauge, just know that you get some drag if it is magnetic vs non-magnetic. I think the coil voltage should hit nearly 12 V pulses, but may be hard to see with a digital meter. Try a cheap meter with a needle, or an oscilloscope to get a better reading.

Your amplifier might be no good, based on 0.2 V with key on and near zero key off, that shows current is flowing when the key is on. Then only 0.6V while cranking is very low, but may be just the slow digital meter response, or wide gap.

Try resetting the gap first. Then, if needed, Lucky8 sells an amplifier module I am using for less than $25, along with assorted other ignition parts. I think we are near the finish line!

One more thing. Don't pull up on the rotor without pressing down on the shaft with a screwdriver or such. If the shaft moves up, the centrifugal advance springs can be detached and the rotor changes position. Then you'll need to dig into the distributor to reattach the springs and make sure the levers are all aligned properly (i.e. voice of experience). Well, maybe we are near the starting line instead.

 

First off, Thank you JohnZo for your help. I have replaced the module with a new one to have the exact same results. My tool guy will be here shortly at which time I was going to see if he had a non magnetic feeler gauge to make sure the drag doesn't fool me.

 

Just measured the air gap again with a nonmagnetic gauge and the result is .20

 

If the pick up and amp module are working, a nail or iron paper clip or small screwdriver moving near the pick up should trigger 12 V at the coil, and a spark at the HV lead near ground.

 

If it's the OEM dizzy the pickup coil inside the dizzy would be the thing to check. 94-95 D1's had a different connector on the pickup coil and 94-95 parts are $$$. You can use the 93-94 D110/D90/RRC pickup coil which is usually 20-30.00 online and just keep your connector and splice it on. Also I would use a meter and verify the wires from the remote amplifier to dizzy/pickup coil are good, I've seen a few have bad connections at the remote amplifier or a cut wire due to other repairs in that area. If the magnets on the pickup coil are cracked = replace it. The cheap spark tester at Harbor Freight or any auto parts store will help greatly on verifying spark.