Hello all my name will rocket and I recently purchased a LR disco ds as a everyday work vehicle, my chevy died and I needed a cheap beater to to n fro work. I seen a LR disco for $750 talked the guy down to 650 as is was pretty rough.

The driver side head light clips are broke, it had a slice in the rubber fuel line which I fixed, was lie on most fluids and was stuck in diff lock. I youtube the diff lock n found most problems are from that linkage.

So after so wrestling n headache she decided to come out of diff lock n the 4x4 light disappeared and she now turn with out the diffs fighting each other. Only problem is when I lay off the acceleration some times I hear a loud clank...any ideas?

Also upon fixing a slice in the radiator hose I noticed som rtv sealant on the water pump and it occasionally overheates on rides longer than 20 miles, expecially if it idles mid trip. I can't see coolant leaking and the overflow box gets low, I thought worst case cracked block so I checked the dip stick n oil is not white which tells me it leaking in the engine. Also I flushed the over flow box and radiator no clogs. Any thoughts?

It has 161, 000 on it no check engine light, I just bought castrol gtx HM 10-30 is there better I should be using? Brand or weight?

 

1. 10W40 20W50 15W40. No 10W30 unless you live where it never gets warm. Rover only rated that weight oil for under 95F. Plus you have a lot of engine wear already.

2. Loud clank may be the drive shafts (lube U joints) and while under there check the rear rubber flex coupler to be sure it has no cracks.

3. The heat gauge is not real accurate, if you can attach something to the OBDII port you will know a lot more about the temp. Anything over 9:00 on the gauge is overheating.

4. Coolant loss - it has to go somewhere. You can rent/borrow a coolant pressure tester and pump up system to 15 PSI and wait 30 minues for leaks to show up. Coolant cap if weak can vent coolant out the overflow line while you are driving, zip tie a paper towel to that line to be sure.

4. Radiator may be clogged with stuff you can't flush out. With truck warmed up, feel the fins top to bottom. Or use an IR thermometer. If bottom is more than 10F colder then those rows have weak or no water flow inside them. And indy rad shop can unsolder the brass side tank and rod out the calcium for under $100, that is a $700 copper and brass radiator.

5. With water pump work having been done, check the belt route. Also when warmed up, engine off, spin the main radiator fan and release, should stop in under 1 revolution. If clutch freewheels you won't get enough cooling at idle or slow.

6. A 180F thermostat is a $10 modification you can make and well worth it if you live where it gets warm in summer.

7. You don't want sounds like water bubbles rushing in pipes under dash - can be air bubbles you can bleed out or exhaust gas from head gasket or worse.

8. The RAVE is the factory set of shop and owner manuals, download for free and let them be your guide.

9. At $650 that is basically crush price for it. The odds are that you will have a number of problems, not just one or two.

 

#7 I have that, I hear it more on stopping n going up hill. How to do I try n bleed the air?

 

Any sweet smell of anti-freeze in the exhaust? Particularly on start up?

 

No, but I deffinitly hear water sloshing around under accel from dead stop n cornering.