1997 DI wont start - Check Engine light on
#1
1997 DI wont start - Check Engine light on
I had the following codes read earlier today:
P0116 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Falling Temp Fault
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor High Out of Range Fault
P1193 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Open Downstream
P0181 - Fuel Temperature Sensor Signal Error Fault
P1517 - Neutral Drive Cranking Fault.
I just bought the truck two weeks ago (had zero problems with any previous test drives). I took the rig up to the trail for a shake down run. On the way home the check engine light came on and truck would not start. Long story short, i have to floor the gas pedal and crank it over and over again. When the truck finally catches (it will start then instantly die) it smell flooded. if/when it actually starts the truck actually runs fine. The prior owner tells me that the plugs and wires were replaced less than 5K miles ago. I am assuming the p1193 code has something to do with o2 sensors (not sure which one) I don't even know where to start any help would be appreciated.
P0116 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Falling Temp Fault
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor High Out of Range Fault
P1193 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Open Downstream
P0181 - Fuel Temperature Sensor Signal Error Fault
P1517 - Neutral Drive Cranking Fault.
I just bought the truck two weeks ago (had zero problems with any previous test drives). I took the rig up to the trail for a shake down run. On the way home the check engine light came on and truck would not start. Long story short, i have to floor the gas pedal and crank it over and over again. When the truck finally catches (it will start then instantly die) it smell flooded. if/when it actually starts the truck actually runs fine. The prior owner tells me that the plugs and wires were replaced less than 5K miles ago. I am assuming the p1193 code has something to do with o2 sensors (not sure which one) I don't even know where to start any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by Sbonomo; 08-12-2012 at 08:02 PM.
#2
It is getting flooded, the fuel temp sensor is what tells the ECU how hot the fuel is and adjusts the fuel amount needed for starting based on that temp.
Yours is bad, replace it.
Your coolant temp sensor is bad, when it is bad it will send a false signal to the ECU on what the actual engine temp is, if the ECU thinks the engine is at -60*F it will give the engine enough fuel to so it can run at -60*F, in other words full choke.
If the ECU thinks the engine is +250*F it will lean out the fuel mixture because a hot engine uses less fuel than a cold one.
Replace the engine temp sensor, there are two, you want the one next to the thermostat, that is the one for the ECU.
Once those are replaced clear the codes and see what comes back, running to rich will set off O2 codes.
Yours is bad, replace it.
Your coolant temp sensor is bad, when it is bad it will send a false signal to the ECU on what the actual engine temp is, if the ECU thinks the engine is at -60*F it will give the engine enough fuel to so it can run at -60*F, in other words full choke.
If the ECU thinks the engine is +250*F it will lean out the fuel mixture because a hot engine uses less fuel than a cold one.
Replace the engine temp sensor, there are two, you want the one next to the thermostat, that is the one for the ECU.
Once those are replaced clear the codes and see what comes back, running to rich will set off O2 codes.
#3
#4
In my time playing with these discos I have twice seen multiple sensor failure. I wouldn't shoot it down completely. Both those sensors are prone to failure and both revert to pre set settings that when not applicable create rich and lean mixtures. My .02 but then again I haven't been around these rovers as long.
#5
#6
As for spikes answer i think its completely logical and possible. If you have having those issues that very well could be the case. I have had one thing after another fail. Most of my failures have happened at one time just couldn't tell until i started to pull it apart one by one. Lets see i had a coil pack, 2 o2 sensors, and a cat go bad in one sitting.
but as for the problem i would go with spike also may be time to change the crank shaft positioning sensor will give you hard starts when hot. but when cool will start right up. also may be time to clean maf and iacv. both easy to clean but they are not the culprit to your problems. the maf and iacv may just contribute to the issue but not the cause.
but as for the problem i would go with spike also may be time to change the crank shaft positioning sensor will give you hard starts when hot. but when cool will start right up. also may be time to clean maf and iacv. both easy to clean but they are not the culprit to your problems. the maf and iacv may just contribute to the issue but not the cause.
#7
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I had all sort of issues until I thoroughly cleaned not only the IACV and TPS but more importantly the ports that these items attach to on the plenum! Things then got much much better.
I would clean all of them and replcae the temp sensors as well. They are pretty reasonable in price and certainly will not hurt anything. Often times multiple contributors or conditions exist that do affect how well the engine runs.
Also do not overlook the two hoses that recirculate the unburnt fumes back into the intake. These hoses tend to deterioate and will cause vacumn leaks. AB has the correct hoses pretty cheap as well.
I would clean all of them and replcae the temp sensors as well. They are pretty reasonable in price and certainly will not hurt anything. Often times multiple contributors or conditions exist that do affect how well the engine runs.
Also do not overlook the two hoses that recirculate the unburnt fumes back into the intake. These hoses tend to deterioate and will cause vacumn leaks. AB has the correct hoses pretty cheap as well.
#8
It is getting flooded, the fuel temp sensor is what tells the ECU how hot the fuel is and adjusts the fuel amount needed for starting based on that temp.
Yours is bad, replace it.
Your coolant temp sensor is bad, when it is bad it will send a false signal to the ECU on what the actual engine temp is, if the ECU thinks the engine is at -60*F it will give the engine enough fuel to so it can run at -60*F, in other words full choke.
If the ECU thinks the engine is +250*F it will lean out the fuel mixture because a hot engine uses less fuel than a cold one.
Replace the engine temp sensor, there are two, you want the one next to the thermostat, that is the one for the ECU.
Once those are replaced clear the codes and see what comes back, running to rich will set off O2 codes.
Yours is bad, replace it.
Your coolant temp sensor is bad, when it is bad it will send a false signal to the ECU on what the actual engine temp is, if the ECU thinks the engine is at -60*F it will give the engine enough fuel to so it can run at -60*F, in other words full choke.
If the ECU thinks the engine is +250*F it will lean out the fuel mixture because a hot engine uses less fuel than a cold one.
Replace the engine temp sensor, there are two, you want the one next to the thermostat, that is the one for the ECU.
Once those are replaced clear the codes and see what comes back, running to rich will set off O2 codes.
Thanks for the reply. I will order parts today. Because this is a new vehicle for me (166K miles) i have no problem replacing all of these parts because they are probably living on borrowed time anyway. I will post the results once i have everything in.
#9
Both have failed on my truck within a year of each other, he just got this truck and who knows how long these codes have been there or the sensors have been bad.
I went with a bad fuel temp sensor for over a year, I reset the code, would drive for 2 weeks, code came back.
Cleared code, drove for 2 weeks, code came back...I finally replaced it.
I replaced my engine temp sensor in less than a week because it actually effected how the engine ran as well as my MPG, I was running open loop all the time.
So that is why I say to replace those things, they are cheap, easy and can cause his symptoms.
Yes it could be a wire harness problem, but I think that is unlikely.
I am glad you questioned me so I could explain where I was coming from.
#10
No, me and you are good, no problem there, not arguing about the net result of what these sensors cause either.
What I think is odd is that the CEL popped on the way home from a trail ride with all these sensor codes......and they represent one side of the loom that wraps over to the drivers side...... See where I'm coming from? I'd be looking first, swapping second. Why? Because I've only replaced the temp sensor and two 02's in the four years I've owned my truck and get great mileage (as you know) with the originals with 156k on em. I don't chase faults by replacing without knowing they are bad first. But hey, if somebody wants to spend who am I to complain.
Just send me a couple of smalls while your at it cuz I could burn it on a fun run to the casino.....
What I think is odd is that the CEL popped on the way home from a trail ride with all these sensor codes......and they represent one side of the loom that wraps over to the drivers side...... See where I'm coming from? I'd be looking first, swapping second. Why? Because I've only replaced the temp sensor and two 02's in the four years I've owned my truck and get great mileage (as you know) with the originals with 156k on em. I don't chase faults by replacing without knowing they are bad first. But hey, if somebody wants to spend who am I to complain.
Just send me a couple of smalls while your at it cuz I could burn it on a fun run to the casino.....