Cold starts pretty much every single time, runs good but idles a little high, will run as long as I let it at idle. Driving wise if I slow down for a stop sign if I let the rpms go down to idle it will die. Once I turn it off or it dies, it will not start again until it's completely cold again. Fuel pressure is good and spark is good, it's had issues with idle for a few months now so plugs, wires, and coil packs are fairly new. I'm at a loss for what else could be the issue and any mechanically inclined people I know are not a fan of the foreign motors so they aren't much help.

 

The hot/cold issue hints at crank position sensor (which would be unrelated to the idle speed). They don't like to be too hot and can create a no start issue.

The idle speed suggests IACV.

I'd remove the IACV, clean the pintle and throttle body and see how that goes since it won't cost you anything. Sometimes they just stick but other times they need to be replaced.

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If that makes no change get a squirt bottle of cold water and squirt it on the crank position sensor cover when hot and won't start to see if that changes anything. Also won't cost you anything.

 

The iavc was replaced about three months ago, when I pulled it off it literally fell apart in my hands. There is the sound of the intake sucking in air really loud right before it dies which led me to the iavc in the first place but after replacing it, it still does the same thing. It also has a new air filter in it as well. I will definitely try the CPS trick and see what comes of that.

 

I would use an OBD scanner to read the sensors that control idle: RPM, Engine Coolant Temperature, Throttle Position Sensor, Fuel Temperature, Mass Air Flow, Timing Advance, even battery voltage. Also check the O2 sensor voltages (all four) to make sure they are responding correctly. Check Long and Short Term Fuel Trims. The OBD port is your best friend, and easy to use. After a while you get to know what normal values look like. A scanner will also show any codes when the check engine light comes on.

Mechanical checks include looking for vacuum leaks (fuel trims can help identify if this is a problem), fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator (pressure at the rail should decrease at idle due to more vacuum at the intake). Is the fuel fresh? Are you using premium or regular? Does the Evaporative canister solenoid close the path when it should?

The shop manual has a section for setting the base idle while the IACV is completely blocked off. It might help to check the base idle RPMs. The good news is it is running during initial idle, so we are half way there.

 

This. An OBD reader is a huge time and money saver. Get a wireless dongle and an app for your phone.
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