Hey everyone! I bought myself a 1999 Disco 1 SD for an amazing price to be something I want to restore. I understand that this will be a great undertaking to which I am happy to do. Goal is to have her be an overlander, but want to get her running proper before I get in to overland modifications. Now she is looking rough at the moment, but the frame is rust free and she moves...funky though. Exterior body paint is shot out, but no dents or deep scratches which I will repaint once I am in the right stage of the project. I am located in Southern California

I have jumped around different threads researching Disco 1 that relate to my issues and etc. Here is some background information from what I received and am dealing with. Previous owner used it to go to work and for around the city. Put new cats, new injectors, and new gas pump. Car turns on hits 3k rpm and then dies. If put in to drive or reverse, it will maintain 3k rpm but will jerk when I press gas as rpm regulates itself but returns to 3k rpm when not moving. In addition, brakes lever has to be smashed to the floor for brakes to work at around 70-80% efficiency. There is also the ticking noise from engine which I believe might be lifters, hopefully, but will get to know once I move car to look inside engine. Also, when I am making a turn I hear clanking or clunking noise on the passenger side which I think might be something to do with the wheel bearing.

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Already got some fault codes which are P1314, P1190, 01316 and Check Engine, Oil, SRS, Anti Lock, and Battery light on.

First thing first, I will be replacing radiator with Nissen radiator with Flowcooler water pump, then I will be adding new headgaskets and replace any top end engine parts as I move forward. I will be going with Rotella 10w-40. I will clean out throttle body and MAF, IAVC, and reset values using fixmyrover.

Is this the right place to start? Any advice or insight will be appreciated!

 

Head gasket is a little premature.
I'd replace
- spark plugs and wires
- all fluids
- reset adaptive values
- clean MAF & IACV
- water pump and radiator are 'as needed'. difficult to say how much your vehicle needs them

Than see where you are.

You will probably need O2 sensors.

Get an OBD dongle and an app for you phone.
Download all the manuals.

Take it step by step

 

Thanks for the advice. Got the gems utility all on a Samsung S4 with an OBD Link, downloaded RAVE manuals too.

For 02 sensors, any preferences? I know I need to grab the ones for AEL. Also, I will be replacing cats to CARB compliant as I reside in Southern California.

 

I just replaced my cats and used Walker brand O2 sensors. they seem to be fine. To start I would only replace the upstream sensors. You may not need downstreams.

Upstream sensors inform the air/fuel mix. Downstream sensors only sense whether or not the catalytic converter is functioning properly.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=5132&jsn=1

One other item.... A tube from the passenger side of the upper intake runs to the passenger vale cover. Pull off that hose and carefully try to remove the little squiggly piece of plastic sitting in the valve cover. It is an oil catch. If it doesn't move you can use a bit of PB Blaster (or similar) to help free it.

It should go without saying that fresh oil and air filters are in order.

On spark plugs, keep it simple. I use ntk bpr6es. Gap to .33.

My 'special sauce' voodoo is to toss in a bottle of plain old STP oil treatment with each change. It might be snake oil but sometimes these vehicles require a little bit of magic. YMMV.

 

Probably should not run the engine if Oil light stays on. Fix that first. Possible the switch is faulty, but also possible the oil pump is broken. Could cause motor to fail.

Battery light on could be caused by bad alternator. Take it in to get it checked out. Alternator feeds the tachometer. Bad alternator is also possible to cause engine to stall.

Clunk while turning could be CV joint, tie rod joint, or hub bearings; less likely to be wheel bearings.

Good luck with the project. Can you share what your "amazing price" was?

 

Yeah, that's why I want to do head gaskets and replace lifters and etc if need be. For sure I am switching oil pump as I don't know the history of the car. He said he never had issues until he parked it for 2 years and then listed for sale.

Alternator could be shot out, I will be searching for alternators. Maybe get a rebuilt one from will t. I already have a new battery and still stalls out.

Thanks for the info on the clunking noise will look into it.

I am excited for this project as the price I paid for was $500. Bought it from Nevada. Guy listed for 1200 and he had no offers, I talked him down to 1000 until he told me about the dash lights and video of ticking noise and I just told sent him my final offer in which he accepted. Honestly surprised he didn't junk it.

Also, already got it titled and non op in California.