In prep to install a new rear bumper (without the integrated turn signals). I am going to try to install some rear brake lights from a 96 since they have the turn signals built in.

Has anyone on here done this?

I have the newer brake lights and I have installed them. I didn't think I would be lucky enough for them to just work. With these new lights when you apply the brake, the brake light(s) and the amber turn signal part both light up.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

I have looked at the rave but am a little inept when it comes to wiring schematics.


Thanks

 

Yes it has been done, but you will need to re-wire.
I can change a light bulb and maybe a fuse, I've reset a circuit breaker once, but thats it when it comes to wiring.

 

oh they are easy, like an old road map. here are two pages, of the 95 and the 96 tail light assembly.

95:

Pin 1 - stop - green/purple
Pin 2 - stop - green/purple
Pin 3 - vacant
Pin 4 - ground - black
Pin 5 - rear fog guard - red/yellow
Pin 6 - reverse light - green/brown

96: Just the differences

Pin 3 - side lamps red/brown
Pin 1 - direction indicator lamp green/red

So on the 94/95, two lamps are stop lamps, on the 96 it becomes one stop light and one turn signal, you'll have to bring up wire from bumper mounted turn signal to pin 1 of the lamp assembly, and remove the green/purple. And you'll have to decide what to do with the side lights, you would want them to light up as well (running lights)?

 

Ahh! Perfect. Thank you!

On a side note. Is there something I can use that will protect wiring better than the plastic factory tubing?

Thanks again
Matt

 

you can find a plastic covered flexible conduit in the electrical department at Lowes and Home Depot, generic name is "Seal tite", used to wire up electrical things in wet area. But like 1/2 inch or larger diameter.

 

If you remove the trim in the boot around the back side of the light housing you can find the brake light wire you need to tap in to and connect to the "new" brake light circuit.
I did it on my '95 and it took not very long at all.

Alternatively you can just remove the knock-out on the '95 housing and install a bulb.

 

Harbor Freight also has Heat Shrink Tubing at a great price for an assorted size package. It looks like a black straw. You slip it over the wire/s to be insulated and apply heat to shrink it. It usually shrinks about 50 percent in diameter. A good hair dryer or one of the paint stripper heat guns will work.

I would use a layer or two of this and one of the durable pieces of larger sleeving for even more protection from abrasion.

If you can find it, there is a product called Centerline tape, that only sticks to itself. It uses no adhesive, but due to it's material properties, it self-vulcanizes. That is molecules actually migrate from layer to layer forming a solid piece of cured rubber.

I have used it working on various missile and aircraft programs.