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Easy as pie.
And if you are posting multiple pics put a space or two between them.

 

Spike,
my bad I did not remember this sensor on the 95 with dizzy 4.6 motor.
Besides the bottom plenum removal cleaning the intake ports, injector swap and intake extension two years ago. I had very little hands on under the hood beyond servicing.
Now that it's mine the past two years was when I applied my ideas to it as before it was run daily. The wife would of flipped out it being down three weeks like it was. I had a burning idea that worked out better than expected.

 

Ok, so what engine exactly is in your truck?
Your truck is a '95, which had the 3.9, you say you have a 4.6 which never had a dizzy as far as I know.
The 4.2 did, but that was in a Range Rover Classic.

 

Carl, if the amp isn't mounted in it's stock (on the dizzy) location it's usually mounted to the inner fender. That is the common mod to prevent heat soak. The FPR can be simple checked by taking the vacuum line off, pressure should build since it's not being returned to the tank. If it's already high with the vacuum line on then the diaphragm is kaput. It's the same as high rpm, engine vacuum drops sending more of the fuel pressure through the injectors......blah blah blah.

If you have a web address to your Easy Share (which you would normally email somebody with) you can stick that in your post.

Where did you add that 1 1/2" spacer, between the Ram Housing and the intake?

Spike, who's Disco is that in your last photo........LOL?

 

Spike,
this 11-94 build date 3.9 D1 had a 7/100K extended warranty from the PO a doctor. His 5/60K lease ended he planned on keeping it after spending $3,400 at the 60K checkup new Michelins with other add ons, brush guard, running boards, fog lights, wood interior trim blah blah.
The oil pressure was always low I found out as I installed a gauge besides the long dry cold starts daily. After the dealership pulled the tranny three times for a rear main seal leak then the dry starts grew longer. The dealership with guessing game techs, yeah right. Next the dealership pulled the crank with block still in truck. Yup dinged the crank journals good then requested $325 to grind. Bearing inserts all into copper no scores or dirt damage The warranty company was getting screwed around by the dealership plus loaner vehicles. Pasting 5 weeks with stopped progress no wonder.
After some attorney action I went forward saving the warranty company money by having a cheaper factory new 4.6 shortblock installed vs a 3.9. See me smiling? Had to sign a release a "not smog legal vehicle. Heck 7 of 100 PPM maxHC idle, 11 of 180 PPM max at 2,500, I think it will pass smog.
With proper thinking and parts the new 3.9 oil pump with cover added to the 4.6 engine. I machined a aluminum plug for the rear of the block to flywheel sensor hole to keep dirt out.
While the old engine was apart and waiting for the 4.6 block of over 5 weeks no action I snagged the heads to be rebuilt by a machinest that knows and repairs Rover heads. No carbon sticking valve problems like I had randomly before a few times on the highway.
Dealership used a around the corner toilet of a head shop, no thanks after seeomh a head with one burnt exhaust valve plus burnt seat sunk deep from grinding a $88 repair no thanks I saw enough. Not on my heads.
Light porting the heads as well intake and exhaust manifolds plus port matching this alone is worth more than a bigger cam.
Short block came without cam, timing set and lifters, I already had a Piper cam, lifters, roller timing set plus rocker stand shims for proper lifter preload. Rockers shafts I snagged then dressed on a 10" Cratex wheel jig, OEM not contacting stems square by wear patterns, valve stem tips polished also after the height correction grind.

RPI chip a must install to feed the 4.6, I installed before the engine was finished. Home 27 miles away an oil change with the pre-oiler installed plus the modified sandwich adapter with pressure sensor, EFI low oil pressure switch. This switch triggers the electronic time delay set 6 seconds after 28 psi is established. Drippy wet engine internally before starting cold.
Idle stepper feed hose restricted preventing wild cold rpm's on warmup, set to 950 rpm's max.
Plenum jacket hose with restriction removing a vast amount of heat to the air entering the plenum inlet as well a cold ram air intake to air filter box. Quick swap to the factory snorkel for smog test as well rotating the TPS back.
Recurved dizzy advance as well opened up the vacuum advance nipple port on top of plenium for a stronger higher volume vacuum signal for a quicker advance response.
Drilled and potted rare earth magnets 1/4" x 1 1/4" long in every fill and drain plug, overkill is good.
Fully zerked suspension and tie rods, 140K still snug with drag rotating the tie rod joints.
Dash mini switch, next to it a green/red LED (future switch blank used) plus relays and electronic timer installed under the knee pad at the fuse panel area.
Running a 9" long 1 qt capacity oil filter installed dry, engine after a overnight drain the pre-oiler pressurizes to 28 psi, LED goes from red charging the system to green ready to start engine wet. Made it simple for the wife.
Anti-roll bars, rear 260%, front 190% over stock stiffness, front springs stock, rear HD stock height. A balanced ride not a back breaking 4 x 4, wife drives it.
Recored radiator larger capacity, brass radiator vent cap off a 91 RR, screw that plastic crap plug, lost on on the highway once.
MagnaFlow high flow cats, Borla cat back exhaust. Damn thing sounds like a 60's 289 with glaspacks.

I recall being called an A-hole years ago on this forum for being a hot rodder, but now read 350 chebbies being installed, heck pick on them as I still have a Rover engine. "Rovers are for slow use" one reply, nope I just wanted a good running Rover that will not roll-over on the street and can run not just in the slow lane plus it's not used in the dirt. Yeah i'll get flack of instead get a Honda.
I should "stop guessing" on all my Rover project build ideas and changes? Never!
Done spouting off you know a little more about my Rover project plus my mechanical abilities.
.....~~=o&o>.....

 

DUDE!! So why in the hell are you asking me questions? lol
You lucked out like nobodies business with that warranty company and stealership screwing things up.
This all sounds like a bad amp module but your spark is strong, so I have to retire from giving you any more idea's because I am afraid that I do not know enough to help without actually being there.
A man has to know his limitations, and mine is electrical, I can change a fuse or a light bulb and thats about it.
IHScouts could re-wire your whole truck before he finished his first beer.

And I too will always be rolling with the Rover powerplant, I dont see the advantage of chopping and swapping to fit a different brand power plant under the hood.

 

Thanks for the pat on the back Spike!

Being intermittent or all of a sudden just might be a wire/ground/cicuit board issue. It's pretty common. I'll have to retread the initial post again once I get out of work tonight. Tapping away on my iPhone ain't gonna do me any favors.

 

WHAT THE F!!! You joined the real world and finally got a iPhone and you have not sent me a text yet?
And I thought we were friends.

 

Send me a PM, no harm no foul......yet.

 

Thanks for yout input Spike, electrical is not a problem at my end.
I see two problems off my findings.
First the regulator pressures as hot idle at 30 psi vs 34 to 38 psi spec limits. Not way off but off.
With the vacuum hose to regulator removed i'll read 39 psi.
Vacuum hooked up at 3,000 rpm's read 38 psi, idle to 2,000 rpm's quick throttle revs of 40 psi the swing from idle at 30 psi. Hot shutdown 5 minutes holding 38 psi, restart 34 psi stumbles with 2-3 cylinders missing, random not any one cylinder faulty hence not any one injector a problem as well ignition as the scope eliminated ignition problems.
I never found the dizzy amplifier plus have seen this not on the dizzy with the last three 95 D1's plus my spare sizzy.
Half hour hot soaks hold at 36 psi, 19 hours holds at 12 psi.
Pinch the fuel return hose shut read 78 psi, slowly pinch the rail feed hose leaning down with hot exhaust smell as well idles down keeps running on 9 psi rail pressure.
The second item of possible suspect is the fuel pump, 1 hour hot soak 16 pis reading, key on 31 psi, start idles as normal with a the pressure gauge fluttering 28 to 36 psi swing.
Within a minute it settles down to 1 or 2 psi of needle flutter.
My question, there any needle flutter with others that have checked their fuel rail pressure?
Fuel pump as well regulator with my findings will be replaced is my thinking as they have 140K on them.
As it stands now it still pulls hard feeding the 4.6 up to 5,900 rpm's in 3rd and 4th without laying down from lack of fueling.
While i'm at it i'll also pull and recheck injectors against my before installed readings. They flowed to within 3/4% balanced then.
.....o&o>.....