Thanks lrnoob. Rubber hose may be my final option. I'm surprised that rubber hose and clamps is enough. I would have guessed that there would be too much stretch in the hose and not enough pressure on the clamps- but that was just my assumption, right?

Today over lunch, i purchased a line wrench, some steel fuel line and a compression fitting. If the PB Blaster doesn't work i'll have to cut off the old fitting and filter and replace. Should be goods as long as i am careful with the alignment.

As far as the penetrating fluid goes, i tried the ATF/Acetone and it works, but the two don't mix so you have to shake it up and im not sure how well it sits on parts. I;ve only used it where i can control how it sits on the rusted area, like soaking in a jar or upright in a vice. BTW, Chris Fix does some great videos. I really like the one where he repairs rust spots on the blue car and makes it look like new, doing it all in his driveway by hand.

 

jimvw57,

I am still getting power to the pump, so i am assessing that the roll-over switch is good. my son thinks that it is a great feature and was surprised to hear LR had included it on the vehicle.

 

34 - 39 psi is where it should land and it's tested at the fuel filter outlet (or the fuel line connection at the rail). You have two fuel related relays behind the RH kick panel, the fuel injector relay and the fuel pump relay. Another distinction is that your fuel injection type is MFI = Multi-port Fuel Injection which is a whole bunch different then the later 96 and up Discos which have SFI = Sequential Fuel Injection. It seems a few folks are mixing up the types here.... You have a distributor and anyone with a 96 and up has a Crankshaft Position Sensor. Your computer is under the passenger seat and normally (NAS) has a red LED plug in module that displays two digit codes. The best way to view the readout is to remove the front passenger seat which is pretty dang easy. It's a great feature to have that LED readout. I have a link for codes and more; http://www.troublecodes.net/landrvr/

The comment I made on the coolant temp sensor was probably on a 96 and up, they have two, one for the gauge and one for the ECM. It's the one for the ECM that I was referring to. When they fail they either register too cold or too hot and both display different failure characteristics in engine performance.

When you replace the fuel filter you'll probably have the problem very near solved.......

 

So. The fuel filter took four hours to get off and replace. Had to cut through the rubber hose on the outbound side and replace. Funny thing is, the only fuel pipe to fit is 3/8" and the factory stuff is 5/16". So, eventually i ended up sliding on 5/16" fuel injector hose and hose clamps.

So, after replacing the fuel filter, the motor almost starts a little better...... I dont know where to go from here. I disonnected the battery and am getting an 02, battery recently disconnected. i'll have to go through the procedure to clear that and see what pulls up. first time it's ever read a code. edit: checked fault codes after clearing 02, No faults showing. Tomorrow i will buy a fuel pressure gauge and check.

i hear the pump turn on for a few seconds in position 2 then it goes off as it should, funny thing is, i blew the fuel pump fuse-- am assuming that is why it stopped running, the question is, why did it blow and why is the pump still turning if something created enough load to pop a 15A fuse. I am wondering if my fuel lines are clogged. i smell fresh gas from the exhaust, but it is faint, not overly strong like a flooded engine. i dont know.

 

Ihscouts,

I have two follow on questions,

1. when does the fuel injector relay come on? According to the RAVE, it is wired to the fuse box in under the bonnet, Does this mean on key switch pos. 2?
2. if i am getting adequate fuel pressure and the relay is turning on, would this indicate the ECM is bad? I notice there are two fault codes for the ECM. would it be wrong to guess that if the ECM is bad, i would get one of these codes? Im hoping that it is not bad, but right now, i'd just be happy to get her running at any cost.

thank you.

johnny

 

Hold on, you had a 15A fuse that was blown, lets figure out why that happened first. Check your connector at the fuel pump, look for overheated/discolored pins and sockets. I know for a fact that a pump will run for a while with this type of connection until the pins/sockets heat deform and loose contact. I just went through this with a brand new aftermarket fuel pump without a waterproof connector.

 

IHscouts,

The blown fuse is confusing me. It happened but everything looks to be in electrical order. The pump turns on, the relay comes on and off. I will purchase a fuel pressure gauge today and test the viability of the pump. It may be spinning but not pumping enough, Or, there may e a fuel line blockage? i pulled the pump, it looked good. all the wiring inside the pump housing looks good. replaced the filter. Im wondering if the fuel pump relay is the culprit? Or, the fuel injector relay? i cant tell if it comes back on when the key is turned to start, but i know it's on in pos. 2 and times out after 2-3 seconds. will also get a can of starter fluid and see if i can get it to spin with fuel to burn.

I think you're talking about the external connector? kind of hard to tell from the photos, but there is still shiny metal on all the connectors. Def no signs of overheating to a 15A level.

 

Yep, looks like new. I'd give each of the sockets a dab of dielectric grease as good measure. I'd suspect the fuel pump relay or its socket next, RH footwell. The 15A fuse does send pump voltage through it.

 

Hooray! We are up and running again!

After renting a fuel pressure gauge, testing every relay under the passenger kick panel and pulling the fuel pump again, and testing it on water in a jar with the pressure gauge, I had a revelation. The pump is good, the electrics are good, but no pressure at the fuel pump.

Turns out the PO replaced the fuel pump with an AC delco 381. He did not clamp the original hose down to the pump spout- I put a hose clamp on and, vrooom, vroom, vroom, we are running g again.

The moral of this story is, if you replace the fuel pump, spend the extra dollars and use hose clamps.

PS Ihscouts,... Best stuff ever.

 

Gotta make you feel like a million bucks eh? So what's next? (And hallelujah, your one of the clan.)