I pulled the battery on my D1 to work on the alternator..
Back together and it won't start.. Fuel pump doesn't run.
I can manually close the fuel pump relay and the pump will run ...
Vehicle locks and unlocks normally.. No light to indicate the vehicle is disabled. But.. No fuel pump...

I've tried locking and unlocking three times.. No help.
I've tried disconnecting the battery and turning the key to Pos#2 and then reconnecting the battery.. No help..

I've tried the generic key code 1515 and no help..
I'll try to call the local Rover dealer to get the correct code..

I Don't have a fob.. Just a key... No buttons on my key..
Car ran before I disconnected the battery.

Any Ideas ?

John

 

When you connected the battery did you have the hood alarm switch pushed down?

 

Disconnect battery, reset fuel pump inertia switch, press hood switch down and hold it down while you put the - terminal back on the battery. Do not release the hood switch until the terminal is on the battery, and be careful not to break the connection while you tighten the terminal. Keep all doors closed while doing this. You may need to cycle the key a few times but it should work.

 

I think I have the hood switched taped down.. But I'll try it again..

It's not like I'm doing anything else...

Thanks..

Had to run to Dallas and back today so didn't get to call the dealer for the EKA code either..

Tomorrow is another day..

John

 

It may take more than cycling the lock three times. I had to do it several times before mine reset. I didn't have to do any of that other stuff with the hood alarm switch either, so I'm a bit confused by that. I'm not saying they're not right, just that I didn't do it.

 

That is why some of us disconnected that Bonnet Switch.

One other thing, according to the RAVE if the alarm was not engaged when you disconnected the battery, it should not go into immobilization mode.

Also, if it is set by the fob (for others info), the fob must be used to reset it, not the key. I know it does not apply to you since you no longer have the fob. Also if it were immobilized, the spark is disabled as well.

 

If you connect the battery with the hood open and the switch not depressed the alarm thinks the truck is being tampered with and immobilizes the vehicle.

I think you better get back to the alternator wiring for a once over. If it ran before and won't now you may have missed something.

 

There's only three wires on the alternator... Tough to get those wrong...

One's a plug.. One's a self captured nut, and the third is the Battery + lead...

I called the dealership here in OKC.. They said those old D1's don't even have an EKA code.. He said he looked it up on the Rover website and it didn't show one...

I may be going into the spyder and just disable that bastard..

UPDATE:

Got in it this morning.. Without doing anything, Turned the key and was greeted by the sound of the fuel pump running..
Started right up....

This may be a coincidental failure of the security system so I'm keen to see if it does it again...

Oh yeah.. The tach is working now and the alternator is putting out 14 volts like it should again... How about that...
Took it apart. Cleaned it up and checked all the internal connections...

Holy Louie...

John

 

Loose ground somewhere possibly.

 

A word of advice...kill the spider now before it leaves you stranded. That way you know it's not part of the problem if this happens again...