i am talking take off the top intake with the 4.0 on it so i guess there is no gasket for it also is there a way to test the old injectors when i pull them off

 

change the fuel injectors out and oh boy the old ones were rusty and some of the O ring were bad off so tues i am going do a oil change again and pray... beside breaking a bolt on the fuel rail and another one that hold down the tubes pieces it was not bad at all

 

Let us know how it works out.

 

darn it round 2 and three days later oil light back plus now the coolant pop off and boiling so go figure

 

Doh!!!

 

Doh!!!

 

doh aint the word i am scream lol but i was thinking it chould be gas residue left over in oil tank or some but i think thermostat is stuck but the my gauges is bottom the middle line

 

You need to check the actual temp of the engine with a OBDII scanner.
I figured out that my coolant temp sensor was bad by watching the coolant temp on my scanner, it would jump around, -45, +200, +50, -150...the gauge and the ECU use a different temp sensor, my ECU temp sensor was bad and because of the funky temp readings my truck was being over fueled and my MPG dropped.
So you need to check that first, then if that comes back fine replace the t-stat.
A cold engine needs more fuel than a warm one and if the ECU thinks its cold it will give it more fuel, kinda like using the choke on a lawnmower or chainsaw.

 

ok i will try that and see what going on and do you think that chould be it about the gas in the oil pan

 

When I bought my 97 D1 w/ 164k miles I thought it was a good idea to use 10W30. Within 300 miles the oil pump gear shattered. Now I only use the recommended 5W40. I had issues with my 99 D1 136K miles when I bought it. The oil light always came on at stop lights, or when I would brake and slow down. I assumed the oil was not correct, so I changed it out with 5W40. This stopped the oil light from coming on and increased my RPM to a normal range.