96 Disco Rear Axle Service
As mentioned in my other posts, Im getting a 96 Disco in a few weeks. Has around 180K+ Exterior body appears to be in overall good condition with a few nicks here and there and a few needed replacements and one small rust hole on the panel that holds the bumper on. Nothing I cannot handle. As for the mechanical, the Disco is currently not safe for operation as the engine has a leak (seller has not yet specified) and most of all the rear axle needs servicing. From what I gather the rear bearing is broken and needs to be replaced (Ill likely replace both just to be on the safe side) but in the pictures shown, I'm not exactly sure
A.) what I'm looking at in regards to damage (axle work is beyond my expertise)
b.) what the overal condition is of the entire rear axle.
c.) should I save up the $$$ and buy a replacement rear axle (new or used?)
d.) aside from the bearings, what other parts I should invest in to make the axle stable as the Queen intended.
Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think.



A.) what I'm looking at in regards to damage (axle work is beyond my expertise)
b.) what the overal condition is of the entire rear axle.
c.) should I save up the $$$ and buy a replacement rear axle (new or used?)
d.) aside from the bearings, what other parts I should invest in to make the axle stable as the Queen intended.
Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think.



Wow that pinion bearing is trashed. You might be able to find a complete 3rd member (diff) for cheap. The DI and DII both take the same unit if that helps you out. Its a fairly easy unit to replace as a whole, remove axles, remove driveshaft, remove 3rd member, assemble in oposite order. If you have never messed with setting up a differential its best to take it to a driveline shop, but the way that pinion sticks out I'll bet the gears are trashed along with the bearings. The last used 3rd members I remember seeing for sale where around $150-200 plus shipping if that gives you an idea on price and Youre looking at a 3-4 hour job unless you run into broken/stuck bolts.
You mite also be lucky and the pinion nut came loose, but if it was driven very long like that im sure theres internall wear in it.
I would also replace the Rotoflex since youll have the driveshaft out to repair the diff, and I would also service the wheel bearings and seals since the axles will be out also.
You mite also be lucky and the pinion nut came loose, but if it was driven very long like that im sure theres internall wear in it.
I would also replace the Rotoflex since youll have the driveshaft out to repair the diff, and I would also service the wheel bearings and seals since the axles will be out also.
Last edited by Long Haul; Mar 20, 2011 at 09:58 PM.
Yeah, a used diff is the way to go.
Drain the diff.
Remove the propshaft.
Remove the input flange if you need to. 3-Bolt Flange Removal
Remove diff securing nuts
Remove the drive member bolts and slide the axles out about 6", and pull the diff out. You don't even need to jack it up.
However, it would probably be wise to also replace the hub bearings at the same time.
Drain the diff.
Remove the propshaft.
Remove the input flange if you need to. 3-Bolt Flange Removal
Remove diff securing nuts
Remove the drive member bolts and slide the axles out about 6", and pull the diff out. You don't even need to jack it up.
However, it would probably be wise to also replace the hub bearings at the same time.
The differential is about $130-140 from will or paul, search "disco mike" and look for his signature for their email addresses.
It's about a 6 hour job, and I'll be honest, it's hard, nasty, and overall kind of confusing if you don't know what you're doing. When I did it I had my mechanics teacher helping me the entire time.
It's about a 6 hour job, and I'll be honest, it's hard, nasty, and overall kind of confusing if you don't know what you're doing. When I did it I had my mechanics teacher helping me the entire time.
That truck looks to be in bad condition, I would suggest you follow my sticky at the top of the D1 section and do it all before going and playing.
As for the bearings, plan on replacing both the front and rear wheel bearings/seal and whatever else you find wrong, also service the swivels in the front, might want to consider using a heavier gear oil like the 75W/140 to help slow down your warn gears.
As for the bearings, plan on replacing both the front and rear wheel bearings/seal and whatever else you find wrong, also service the swivels in the front, might want to consider using a heavier gear oil like the 75W/140 to help slow down your warn gears.
I hope you are not paying too much for the Discovery to begin with.
Definitely work your way thru it before you try to take it out wheeling or you will find yourself in a big mess somewhere you don't want to be.
Most of all, have fun. Don't buy it unless you can afford to let it sit for long periods of time while you work your way thru it. Oh yeah, you need lots of disposable income, patience, booze and a few other things at various times.
Definitely work your way thru it before you try to take it out wheeling or you will find yourself in a big mess somewhere you don't want to be.
Most of all, have fun. Don't buy it unless you can afford to let it sit for long periods of time while you work your way thru it. Oh yeah, you need lots of disposable income, patience, booze and a few other things at various times.
Would it be easier and cheaper to just purchase a used rear axle complete assembly and have it installed? I found one for $600 plus shipping. Supposedly its been tested and or remanufactured to working order.
Discovery Rear Axle Assembly
Discovery Rear Axle Assembly
SWEET JESUS!!! Everyone look more closely at that ROTOflex!
That is the absolute worst way anyone could have installed it. ONLY 3 bolts ... flange to flange with roto in the middle acting as a spacer and not a coupling. Driving it like that is a sure invitation for failure.
I suggest having this rig carefully inspected by a specialty land rover mechanic... that may only be the tip of the iceberg. Any time I see repairs like that it tells me everything i need to know about the person who worked on it and it makes me look hard for other "repairs".
Have you already purchased?
That is the absolute worst way anyone could have installed it. ONLY 3 bolts ... flange to flange with roto in the middle acting as a spacer and not a coupling. Driving it like that is a sure invitation for failure.
I suggest having this rig carefully inspected by a specialty land rover mechanic... that may only be the tip of the iceberg. Any time I see repairs like that it tells me everything i need to know about the person who worked on it and it makes me look hard for other "repairs".
Have you already purchased?
Last edited by Cosmic88; Mar 21, 2011 at 11:56 AM.
Fair price for a decent, working truck but >>> and I am not knocking your truck<<<< I would be very thorough with the inspection of all other areas where "repairs" have been made. 1200 may be a good deal but if there are other repairs like that one you may end up with an expensive restoration simply because of the potential repair / replacements costs incurred by you.
There MAY be no other probs...... that is a gamble and odds are that is not the only thing someone tried to "fix".
Just words of caution here...
There MAY be no other probs...... that is a gamble and odds are that is not the only thing someone tried to "fix".
Just words of caution here...


