I figured i'd start a new thread for this one.

When i picked up the truck on Friday the OBD reader was showing P0300, P0303, and P1316. I cleared the codes and they came back after some driving around on Saturday. Sunday i went and picked up a set of champion coppers, gapped them and replaced the champions that were in there. Plugs all looked good, including #3 as indicated by the P0303 code but swapped them out for good measure and cleared the codes again.

Drove the truck to work today and the CEL popped again, changing the plugs seemed to solve the misfire codes but the P1316 code came back. The PO said he had replaced the wires about 5 months ago but they are some cheapo 7mm jobbers so I went ahead and ordered a set of 8mm Kingsborne wires this morning for good measure since they are local and ship the same day. UPS ground is usually next day in socal so the wires should be here by lunch time tomorrow. Anything else I can or should check in the interim or should i just hang tight till the wires show up tomorrow and see if that sorts the code?

Thanks in advance

Jake

 

these trucks love ( NEED) good plug wires, there's a good chance that'll fix the problem...keep us posted

 

I had the exact same three codes. Mine was a loose plug wire on the coil pack causing "multiple misfire, cylinder 3 misfire, and 1316" i plugged the wire back in and all was good. The 1316 code by itself is not a good sign. The research i've done leads to sticky valves. So hopefully it's just related to yuor wires. Did you order the 8mm wire loom too? I hope so.

 

Hrmm.. no that i did not, didnt think of that one.. I'll engineer something until i can find a proper set of wire holders / loom.

 

yeah, the OEM 7mm wire harness pinches the wires.....ask me how i know

 

Haha, yeah didnt think about that, glad you pointed that out. Wires arrived already! Great service from Kingsborne! Ordered about 10 yesterday morning and had them in my hands by 930 this morning. Cant beat that. I'll fit them on my lunch and check and clear the code that popped up on my way to work.

 

Changed out the plugs wires on my lunch, truck is running noticeably smoother. I'll clear the code this evening and see if that sorts it. On an unrelated note noticed a little bit of coolant loss but i've narrowed it down to the expansion cap not fitting the reservoir correctly. I went a ahead and ordered a replacement as well as a new expansion tank from my local parts house for good measure. Should have it by thursday morning, I'll just keep an eagle eye on the coolant level until i get the new parts and have a chance to change them out.

Also, whats the best way to refill the t-case and the diffs? I bought a couple of 1 gallon jugs of 80w90 and want to change it out asap since the level / age of oil in them is a mystery atm..

 

easy to drain all 3, but you'll probably want to pick up a hand pump, like one that screws into a quart oil bottle......go slow on the drain plugs for the frt & rear diffs.....if the vent line(s) are plugged the old gear lube will come out with force !!

 

There's a write up in the tech sticky area.

1. Be sure you can open fill point, before opening drain.

2. Auto parts stores have a nifty pump that screws right into the 1 gallon jug.

3. Transfer case drain plug has a small magnet on it, careful. If transfer case plate shows any leak, go ahead and remove it once drained, and re-seal - that's in tech are also.

4. Some members use 85W140 on the transfer case to hold down the noise.

5. Diffs have a nearby "banjo" bolt that has a vented bolt feeding a vent tube that runs up to a higher level. Can have gunk in there, needs to be open to allow diff oil to vent fumes, if stopped up can force oil out through seals at wheels. Pix attached.

6. Don't forget the drive shafts while under there. 3 u joints. If no U joints, rebuild shaft before the chirps start - next step shaft breaks away and heads into transmission...

 

Picked the aforementioned nifty pump at the auto parts store a little bit ago, i had one from the last time I did the atf on my wifes VW but couldnt find it for the life of me. Oh well..

I got the cheapo 80W90 to fill the t-case and diffs with since i'm gonna dump it soon anyhow since what is in there is of questionable vintage and quality. I may try a heavier weight in the future. I know it helped out tons on my VW gearbox going to a thicker than mfg spec'd gear oil.

All the zerks on the the driveline were hit with grease on sunday after i changed the plugs. Fortunately it looks like the drive shaft has been rebuilt in the past due to all four of the u-joints having zerks. No rotoflex to go bad is a good thing.

I tend to wrench at night, less interruptions from the wife and kids when they are fast asleep.. Will report back on what i find in the diffs and t-case and see what code popped this morning on the way to work since i haven't had a chance to reset it since changing the plug wires.