ok so every were i loook every one is saying headlamp switch bt dangit i cant even get one for under 200 id rather wire it up to a (example) gm style switch and just drill a hole is this posible and does anyone know the color codes for dash and running light wires thanks

 

sure is strange used to get fast responss on tech here

 

Well, ask for a refund. And while you are at it, look up the schematic in the RAVE, which has the color codes listed with the wiring diagrams. You can download the whole thing, or just the section you need in links below. Enjoy. Another source might just be one of the dismantlers on this site, like Paul Grant. Or boneyard, rotate wheel 9o degres to get at switch.

 

Follow up - $129 from Atlantic British for a new one Land Rover Turn Signal / Headlights Switch (Same Fit As Genuine Part # STC4017)

or rework what you have - https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ht=turn+signal

and find these pages in the manual, if you meter the voltage to F8 under the dash you can determine if the switch is putting out power to the lights. In the first few pages of the RAVE circuts manual they have the color code, which is like "R" for red, "B" for black, "U" for purple, "K" for pink, etc. Those are the letters alongside the wires in the diagrams.

 

I took mine apart and fixed it. Unfortunately, I can't remember exactly what I did now, but I believe the problem was evident after taking it apart. It's just a little fiddly, but you can take the whole thing apart.

 

Take the cover off behind the steering wheel.. Three screws on the bottom and some snaps on the side.. Rotate the steering wheel so you can remove the two phillips screws holding the switch in place...

Using two small screwdrivers, Wedge them into the snap holders on the top and bottom of the switch so you can pull it out of the holder... This is the toughest part of the job..

Once you get the switch out.. Remove a couple of screws and it all comes apart.... IT's VERY easy to clean up the contacts and re-grease and re-assemble the switch... Just use some emery cloth to clean up all the contacts... The switch itself is very robust and unless it's physically broken, You can get it back to working order without much difficulty..

Good Luck

John

 

so i took it apart just like you guys said and wow it was simple but i do have some concerns the plug was black like burnt so idk i cleans and greased every thing and it work pics sooon of the winch bumper im building thanks again guys i love this site no longer how slow you old guys are geting thanks a million

 

The "burnt" look is overheating from high resistance on the contacts. It will make insulation melt and pull back as well.

You happened to post at rush hour, plus on a day when the northeast had a big snow storm; lots of guys out playing with the Rover. This is a volunteer operation, no paid staff, we help out when we can. We work a variety of shifts on our real jobs, some are retired, some are out buying beer, some are wrenching, some are on other sites. You'll get more response on lunch hour and early evening.

There is a search tool as well, for when you need info and no one is available, or willing to respond.

 

Good Job.. Glad you got her going again..

The burned or overheated connection could likely be cleaned up and tightned so that it makes better connection between the male and female parts..

They can get a little loose and that causes them to overheat...

Tighten that sucker up..

John

 

Just to chime in - I mistakenly replaced the switch once before realizing it was the connection that was failing. Cleaned up the contacts and pinched down the female plug where the burning was occurring... all better.