Ignition switch, immobilizer, fuse, loose wire... hard to tell from the other end of a computer screen. Best way is to go through the circuits using the Rave wiring diagrams and Electrical test manual. I think that switch on the left end of the key cylinder with heavy black wires is the bit that actually energized the solenoid.

If it was working before, maybe something got kicked loose?

PS. The electrical manual will also help determine what that connector is. It has a section for connector locations with photos, as well as detailed color coding of the wires, and various switch positions. A very valuable tool in a case like this.
PPSS. If the plastic brake switch with the cruise control tube has broken out of it's bracket, that can cause no crank, as the brake needs to be applied to make the circuit. The switch can be jumpered temporarily to test. Thanks JIMvw57 for jogging my memory.

 

I tried neutral starting several times, no change. I can hear the relay clicking in the passenger footwell however, I have not checked it physically. I will swap a new one in and see what happens. Thank you for the input.

 

I am currently scouring the electrical manual, I do not see this connector referenced anywhere. I thought it was maybe C2096 but after looking at the pictures of the connectors, it does not match. Can you elaborate more on the cruise control tube, Is it the tube located under hood?

Thank you for the help

 

The brake switch is located on a bracket and the plunger contacts the brake pedal metal when brake is released, up there near your feet. It should be solidly mounted, not flopping around.

There are two brake switches: this one with the vacuum tube and wires for starting interlock, and the other one above it with no vacuum tube. The plastic tabs that clip into the bracket can break off so the switch looses contact. Some Forum folk put a spare brake switch in their trail bag for that reason.

If a relay is activating, but the circuit is not working, that could mean a blown fuse.

 

if you are not getting fuel or spark, my knee jerk reaction is the crank shaft position sensor.
It’s a $20.00 part that goes sometimes. On the flywheel there are metal pieces that jut upward. The crankshaft position sensor has a magnet sticking out that senses the wheel is turning. This tells the engine something is occurring. That turns the fuel pump on and sends spark. Otherwise, the starter merely turns the flywheel into oblivion or until you run out of battery power.

The crankshaft position sensor is inside a plastic/fiberglass housing at the bottom in the rear on the driver side. You may want to start by jiggling the wire and see if that connects. I sheathed mine in a heat wrap to ensure integrity - after going through exactly what you are experiencing

 

When you had this issue, did your rover crank? Mine Is not cranking at all with the key. This is what has led me down the electrical rabbit hole, I have to believe that no crank with no fuel pump prime is related some how.

 

No crank at all is a bit different. The CPS going out would still have crank.

When you insert the key, do you get all your lights and bells?

Is the starter working? You could get a wire and ‘jump’ around the solenoid on the starter and crank it that way. That might tell you if your starter is gone.

 

All normal bells and lights , also jumped the started solenoid and it is working. It would crank when jumped directly to the solenoid.

 

I didn't have a chance to check the brake switch tonight, but I checked K127 and K126 relay both are good. Swapped in a replacement and alternated between for good measure. No change.

 

OK, another weird one, disconnect the battery for about 5 min, then reconnect and see if it turns over. my '99 did that and it ended up being in the alarm module.