I checked it out today; 1998 black LE with worn tan leather seats and cracked windscreen. I read the codes and there were 10; 1 oxygen sensor current high, 3 no DTC definition found, and 4 misfire detected on cylinders 7. 4. and 3 plus a random multiple misfire, and one insufficient coolant temp for closed loop control.

I got all the windows to go up and down, but the front sun roof doesn’t move and the rear sunroof opened and closed once and then would not move again. There’s no tachometer or speedometer reading, the left mirror does not go in and out, the right mirror glass is gone, and various switches have broken plastic parts. It does have the rear jump seats. a push down step under the rear bumper, and the rear spare tire mounted on the tailgate door.

My brother-in-law couldn’t remember if the fellow he got it from said the transmission slips when warm or doesn’t shift right. I drove it around his yard and could not shift the little diff lock shifter out of what I assume was high. He wants $700 for it delivered. I am going to do some more research before I decide, but am hesitant to take on what looks like another project. The misfire codes are probably spark plugs or wires and the oxygen sensor code could be a result of misfire, but I need to look up the DTC definition codes; one of them said the crank position sensor might be the fix.

I rather liked the overall design, although it needs a lot of cosmetic TLC. Any thoughts?

 

sounds like you'd be doing the guy a favor by taking it off his hands. i wouldnt pay that much, if anything at all for any truck that old in that condition.. especially a rover.

 

Parts truck.

 

I have been a British car buff for years (TR2, Jaguars, Daimlers) so I am familiar with British quirks and electrical problems on a 170 K mile vehicle, but none of them is newer than 1987 so the electronic stuff on the Discovery is more complicated.

My brother-in-law said the fellow he bought it from for $400 (intending to scrap it) said the transfer case had been replaced/rebuilt just before he got it and the transmission either slips when warm or doesn’t shift right - bro-in-law didn't remember which - and the guy had several other discoveries he was working on and just didn't want to mess with it.

When I drove it around his yard a little I could not shift the transfer case out of what I assume was high, but I hadn't read the on-line owners manual yet. I did have the auto trans in neutral and probably stepped on the brake, but didn't get it to move fore and aft or side to side. There was no tachometer or speedometer indication, which might cause a shifting problem if the computer doesn't know how fast it is going.

I did some more research and found the P1313, 14, and 16 codes which my code reader said are "no DTC definition found" are related to excess emissions and possible catalyst damage on banks A and B - probably related to the misfire codes. The misfire codes are probably caused by bad spark plugs or wires, the oxygen sensor code is an open circuit on one upstream heater, but the code reader's fixes said one of the DTC definition code fixes was to replace the crank position sensor.

Still mulling it over, but have to decide today if I want to take it on for $700 or pass and see it sold for scrap. Bro-in-law said he's get me the number of the seller so I can ask about the trans - the guy apparently fixes up old Land Rovers on the side, but decided this one need too much for him to make a profit.

 

RUN! Or buy it for $400 delivered, strip it for parts/spares. Sell the cats for ~$90 each and scrap the skeleton for $2-300. Then buy another D1 without all the problems of this one. I'd take worn bushings, shocks, and other mechanical problems anyday over the electrical/misfire issues that '98 has.

 

Plugs wires cats new o2 sensors, probly needs head gaskets and cooling system overhaul, possible bad trans plus electrical issues and a busted windshield, you are a few grand in the hole and can't even drive it

It is a $400 parts truck, sounds like it was the other guys parts truck and he put all the bad stuff on it

 

Where are you located?

 

I have 177k on mine without THAT many problems...... it was let go of for sure.

How did it sound as you where tooling around the yard?

 

To answer both questions, I am in Northwest Arkansas, and it had a little engine lifter tick but nothing unusual. I didn't drive it very far and only low speed.

I spoke with the fellow who sold it to Bro-in-law and he said he was driving it to his shop after he bought it when the trans begn to slip and he let it cool off and then "limped" to his shop (body shop not mechanic's shop). He said he has a couple of parts Discoveries and could supply a trans for $350 if it needs one.

Actually other than cracked windshield, passenger mirror missing glass, and broken headlight washer stalk, the body is pretty straight and the paint might even buff out OK. Local Craigs lists have up a couple in the $1500 to $1700 range that also need things like trans, fuel pump, or don't start and drivers starting around $3500 and up.

I didn't see the cross beams for the roof rack or the handles for the jack under the seats, though. Saw a jack and handles on eBay that went for $40 - nice handles with a long reach - hope these come up now and then if I decide to take the plunge on this one.

Right now it is a 50/50 decision to plunge or pass, but If I plunge, I'll sell my 90 Cherokee Limited that I only Use around the place for winching and moving other toys and use the Disco instead - Bought the Cherokee for a tow vehicle, but it scared the crap out of me towing a loaded car trailer and I bought a 96 Grand Cherokee for road towing.

 

If your not afraid of a little work it's all doable and you'd like the ride way better than a Heep. The ZF transmissions are not hard to figure out, they're hydraulic not electronic. It's either the pump, governor or one of the five valves sticking in the valve body, the steels and friction discs really don't wear out. The ticking comes from one of two things, rocker shaft or rocker wear and or lack of lubrication due to occlusion to the top end. Popping the valve covers will tell, popping the heads isn't a bad idea either at that mileage.