D2 mirror physically fits, just need to splice wires.

D2 mirror:
Green/white- compass
Green/brown- auto dim?

D1 mirror- white is positive, not sure what the grey is. I get no power on it even when the headlights are on.

I just spliced the white to the 2 D2 wires mentioned above.

 

Check fuses under the dash and under the hood

Abs is crap on these most just pull the abs pump fuse under the hood

 

You can also get the code by calling the Stealership and giving them your Vin number. That only works if no one has swapped the radio. I did this and my radio still has the "CODE" message in it. Only thing I've ever been able to do is get the word "code" to blink. Mine will get a radio soon.

I'd start with fluids and checking to be sure the CDL engages. Don't for get the swivel housings at the end of the front axle. Definitely flush the coolant and change thermostat.

 

Pull your radio and get the serial number on the back. Give that to the dealer and they'll be able to get you the code.

 

I discovered that the "spare" sun roof motor that was laying in the back is actually the front sun roof motor removed. I found only one 1 7/8" long button head Torx screw among the trash in the Disco that threads into the sun roof motor mounts so I know what thread to buy, but it seems overly long. Anyone know what thread and proper length is needed to mount the front sun roof motor?

Any way to align the motor with the cables when the back of the sun roof is up half an inch? I just read the body manual on the sun roof, but it simply says "CAUTION: Ensure the motor is aligned with fixing holes and the sunroof is in the normally closed position. DO NOT rotate the motor drive spindle in the rack - this may result in incorrect operation of the sunroof." Should I just bolt it up assuming it came out as is and try closing the roof manually?

BTW, driving the Disco around to the drive to drain the oil this morning the speedo started working, although the ABS light did not go out above 5 MPH (win some - lose some)

 

The ABS light is probably on because one of the sensors is too far from the trigger ring on your hubs. Try tapping the sensors down until you hear/feel them bottom. That usually clears the light.....(not always but worth a shot). Once you become more familiar with the truck these little annoyances get easier to solve or rip out.

 

I bet the reason the sunroof motor was out was that it was damaged by water that has built up and overflows the drain tray beneath the sunroof. That's what happened to the motor on one of my DI's. The drain tubes were clogged, water built up in the tray and would periodically overflow. Water would get all over the motor. Anytime I tried to use the motor I blew a fuse. Got fed up and removed the motor and sealed the sunroof closed.

While it is a bit involved, there is a procedure for diagnosing the ABS system without the benefit of the dealer's array of diagnostic computers. IIRC the plug for the Wabco diagnostic computer is up behind the steering column on later DI's. Jumping a couple of wires while removing the ABS display relay should result in the ability to do the flash test. Again, IIRC crossing the black wire with the black and pink wire using a paper clip or similar jumper with start the ABS flashing. The codes should be available in the RAVE. If you get the hang of this test it will go a long way towards demystifying the ABS system and help prevent you from throwing unnecessary parts at the system in an effort to do the diagnostics.

If you search this board as well as Google, I'm sure you'll come up with all the details for performing the ABS diagnostic test for your truck.

 

This sums up Paul's post. I haven't used this site (I used Meritor/WABCO's) but it should do the trick and works on 96 - 99 1/2 DI's.

http://www.horodecki.pl/rajdy4x4/ABS...ng%20light.pdf

WABCO stands for Westinghouse Air Brake Co......

When I self diagnosed my ABS light it turned out I had a unrecoverable ECU failure and of course Paul had an ABS ECU available which I bought and until recently used without any failures. I went with a better performance set up recently that allows me to custom tune my brakes for on road/off road tooling and will soon be configuring a GM booster that works a crap ton better for applying more pressure to the pucks.

 

Thanks, I saved the ABS test proceedure for later.

My stuck sunroof turned out to be a track problem plus either a motor or sunroof ECU problem. I found out you can't turn the motor by turning the gear with a hex key because it is a worm drive. You might be able to "help" it turn while activating the switch if the motor stalls, but I couldn't turn it manually with a hex key even uninstalled. I disassembled the motor from the worm gear so I could re-install the gear part and turn it with a 1/8" Hex key, and I found the sunroof itself was jammed on the right side and crooked. I had to open it as far as it would move (just a little) and then remove the gear again to let the cables slide and straighten the sun roof by force and then put the gear back and open it further manually. I found a little piece of white plastic or nylon in the right track that may have caused a jam, removed it, cleaned and lubed everything as best I could, and then manually closed the sun roof; One cable had apparently jumped a tooth or two on the gear when it jammed leaving it crooked and further jammed.

After getting the sun roof closed, I cleaned up the motor shaft (yes it appeared to have had water get into it), polished the commutator with 600 wet or dry, and reassembled it. The motor turned the gear both ways depending on the polarity of 12V applied to the red and brown wires from a separte battery, but when I reconnected it in the Disco to test it, it only turned one way and only when the open switch was pressed with no response to the close switch. I wonder if the little (magnetic?) switch on the motor gear with the yellow and black wires is supposed to reverse the polarity, or if the sun roof ECU is supposed to reverse it.

In any case I left the motor off and reassembled the overhead without it; at least the sunroof is now closed and I won't have to worry about rain getting in. I can check it out later after other more important things are taken care of.

I warmed up the engine, removed the drain plug (that's a big sucker), and installed a new Wix 51068 oil filter; the oil was pretty dark so I am letting it drain over night to get as much out as possible. I also sucked as much old brake fluid from the brake reservoir as I clould and topped it up with new DOT4, and the brake light now goes out unless the hand brake is applied. Brake bleeding is next as soon as I get some more DOT4.

I found some holes along the top of the firewall surrounded by white paint that make me wonder if something has been removed there; I'll take some low res photos of them tomorrow - pics I took today are too big to post.

It's coming along a little at a time.

 

It's coming along faster than most, believe me. I can tell you know something about something and I'm sure you'll have a good runner in no time. Your doing the same thing I did, take a basket case and make it into a reliable vehicle you'll enjoy. Keep up the good work! These are not that hard to fix. I don't have sunroofs, so your already ahead of me there........

The brake res has a float switch like most euro's do. Same idiot light comes on for the parking brake, nothings wrong there.