Use the open end of a combination wrench that just fits over the top of the sensor. *Tap* the now horizontal wrench body with a hammer while holding the free end until you feel/hear the sensor hit home which is the notched portion of the CV joint's outer body. Those notches are what the sensor senses......motion while rolling. The ABS light stays lit until you hit 5 miles an hour. If everything is golden it will extinguish.

 

Thanks, I finally got the lug nuts broken loose on the left front wheel with a 28mm socket and a 6 foot cheater bar on my 1/2" drive breaker bar handle (whoever maintained this D1 in the past never heard of anti-seize) and I scraped the accumulated mud from around the sensor and tapped it down carefully with a 1/4" punch working around the top. It was .400" above the plate to start with and moved down .020". I'll try the wrench method to tap it again to see if I can tell if it is "home". I hope .020" is enough to do the trick.

Then on to the right side - I needed to do the lug nuts anyway to inspect the brake pads (.430" left) and in case I ever need to change a tire and don't have my cheater bar with me. I'm wire brushing and anti-seizeing the heck out of the lug nuts before they go back on.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ihscouts

Use the open end of a combination wrench that just fits over the top of the sensor. *Tap* the now horizontal wrench body with a hammer while holding the free end until you feel/hear the sensor hit home which is the notched portion of the CV joint's outer body. Those notches are what the sensor senses......motion while rolling. The ABS light stays lit until you hit 5 miles an hour. If everything is golden it will extinguish.

I got both front sensors tapped down until they "rang", erased the ABS codes, and drove a mile down to the boathouse. The ABS light first went out at 5 mph but then came back. The code set was 5-14 - Front left, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring. I erased the code, and driving back up to the house the ABS light stayed off. I don't know if everything is golden, silver, or bronze, but it is progress.

However also while driving back up to the house the check engine light, which had stayed off since I replaced the spark plugs, came on and code set was P1314 – Bank B misfire. The #1 fix reported by my code reader is - replaced crank position sensor. I do have new spark plug wires to install (came yesterday) so maybe that will help keep the check engine off. Fingers crossed the ABS light stays off too.

 

The most important thing you should be aware of with the ABS is that it might appear to be normal until you hit the brake pedal and it kicks back and will not stop the vehicle. It's the number one reason most disable the ABS altogether. It will scare the crap out of you because your not expecting it. There have been a few fender benders reported on the forums for this very reason.

 

Wow! That's interesting. I think it may have kicked when I first drove it after seating the sensors; at least I think I felt the pedal jump. I didn't notice anything on the drive back up the hill. So... I might be better off to just leave the light on if it comes back?

 

Just be aware of it, if you feel the pedal resist being pushed be prepared. In my experiences it happens at slow speed, like for instance when pulling away from the gas pump and stopping at the driveway waiting for traffic to clear enough for me to pull out. It has happened while pulling out of my driveway and thankfully I live on a gravel road in the middle of a deep woods so there's no traffic.

I believe the fault is either with the ABS ECU or with the accumulator/modulator valve block. There isn't a rebuild kit for the block, it's been said that a new block is the only resource but I don't believe there isn't a way around. I currently have my ABS disabled until I find the reason. It isn't a daily event or even weekly, it's random, very random and that's what makes it so insidious because it's when you least expect it when it kicks.

 

I had to make a coon relocation run this morning at 5:00 am and the ABS light came on again so I guess it is not golden yet.

I also got the check engine light and codes 1313, 1314, & 1187, so I'll give the ABS a rest for now. It sure is bright when you're driving in the dark, though, so I guess I need a Click & Clack Car Talk sticky dot to cover it up.

BTW, I used to make annual trips from Ohio to the U.P. years ago when relatives had a cabin up there near Munising and I once stopped in Traverse City for a gas check valve for my ancient Artic Cat snow machine. Not much use for the Artic cat in Arkansas, but it is still here in the barn.

 

I've experienced this, like you said, very random, at slow speeds, and the pedal resists being pushed down and makes this godawful noise. So inquiring minds want to know, how does one disable the ABS? Does the antilock light come on after this has been done?

 

Yes it does, the light will blind you all the time so the bulb gets pulled. Pull the main fuse in the engine compartment fuse box, that disables the accumulator (pump). Somehow that is increasing pressure to the pedal (going backwards in the brake system) rather than out the calipers. Now you understand what I do. The only way to find out is take an ABS block apart to see what is stuck or blown out. The DII's have a reed valve that needs to be replaced on their blocks. I don't think it's too much different on our trucks but finding the parts prevents anyone from really looking into it. The DII's and several other makes like GM use the same ABS block, parts are available and the part numbers are all over the net.

 

What's involved with removing the bulb?