adding electric fan
#1
adding electric fan
OK I have bought a new aluminum radiator to install in spring, I want to deep 6 the clutch fan and go with electrics, was suggested ford Taurus it was OK fit but small, went to a friends shop and picked up 2 alternatives
First is off an 04? Sea bring dual fan
Second we do not know what it is off, big single fan marked denso anyone know what this is? Suggested by one of his guys that it was off a VW need to know for the plugs, also what is the box bolted to the fan? Built on relay?
First is off an 04? Sea bring dual fan
Second we do not know what it is off, big single fan marked denso anyone know what this is? Suggested by one of his guys that it was off a VW need to know for the plugs, also what is the box bolted to the fan? Built on relay?
#3
Question will be how to control fan(s). At 50 mph you don't need them and they can be off (maybe save a piece of one mpg). Wired to relay off AC fans and those only come on when AC on. Heat sensor would be good, there is a spare plugged hole on front of the mainifold (it was for heater hose in older versions). If you change to 180F stat you would need to adjust fan turn on temp as well.
A kill switch for wading might be a nice touch, or combine with manual over-ride for long hills and a trailer.
Not sure those will move as much air as a Blazer fan on a viscous clutch.
A kill switch for wading might be a nice touch, or combine with manual over-ride for long hills and a trailer.
Not sure those will move as much air as a Blazer fan on a viscous clutch.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 01-25-2014 at 09:36 PM.
#4
I have done this before on cj7 , s10 with worked 350 , Chevy 4x4 converted to 455 holds and a few others
You can buy wiring kits with relay and adjustable temp on off, temp probe goes through rad fins
Easy to do and the harness /relay has a extra wire to hook in over ride switch or a/c
Realty like the single fan just need to know what it is off so I can get the plugs
You can buy wiring kits with relay and adjustable temp on off, temp probe goes through rad fins
Easy to do and the harness /relay has a extra wire to hook in over ride switch or a/c
Realty like the single fan just need to know what it is off so I can get the plugs
#5
I just did my radiator swap last month and here is what I used for my setup:
1. Radiator: Summit Racing aluminum radiator that is for a S10 with a 350 swap. Part number 380473.
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...0473/overview/
2. Fan, 97-05 Malibu AC condenser dual fan with shroud. Dorman part number 620-618.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalo...Assemblies.pdf
3. Fan relay, I got a PIAA dual light relay kit, which is nothing special other than integrated fuse and two relays. You can make or buy the same type of relay harness from any aftermarket fog light manufacturer. Anything that supports a 30A relay will work. 30A relay per fan, need two of these harnesses. Fuse also recommended.
4. Fan controller, I used the thermostat housing off a Range Rover classic(I think some D1 with the distributor got the same) with provision for thermo switch. Part number ETC6135.
5. Thermo sensor, I used the same one off the Range Rover classic, part number PRC3359. 97 degrees on, 94 degress off. There are different temperatures for this sensor that are available so you can get the one you need for you desired temperature.
6. Incab switch. Wired as Manual ON/Manual OFF/Auto Thermo, also with LED indicator to show fan is running.
- Three position switch (ON/OFF/ON)
- Wired to turn relay on with ground signal.(Ground switching)
- On the switch: Upper terminal to ground. Middle terminal to fan relay ground(86 on relay). Lower terminal to thermo sensor(either will work).
- On thermo sensor: remaning terminal to ground.
- On relay: connector 85 to key ignition source(constant positive also work if you want fan operational with key off), connector 86 to middle terminal on incab switch, connector 30 to battery positive, connector 87 to fan motor positive.
- On LED indicator: Positive to keyed source. Negative to middle terminal of incab switch. (If not LED, any polarity will work).
7. Upper radiator hose, stock D1.
8. Lower radiator hose, stock D1.
9. Dayco 71957 x1
10. 1-1/2" OD steel tubing x3" long.
9. Lower radiator mount, stock radiator lower plate with the two pins.(Part of the stock radiator.)
11. Fan shroud mount, 2-1/4 x 1-1/2" perforated angle iron from Lowes.
Shop Steelworks 6-ft x 2-1/4-in Plated Steel Slotted Angle at Lowes.com
12. Upper fan shroud mount, 2/16"x1" aluminum bar, bent to shape as needed.
13. Rubber edging for fan shroud to prevent damage to radiator fins. Bushwacker part number 4201.
14. 2"x2"x3/4" rubber piece x2.
15. Stant 10203 0psi radiator cap.
The radiator basically sits on top of the stock lower radiator mounting plate with rubber feets(item #14), the fan assembly with shroud sandwiches the radiator and holds it in place. The upper aluminum straps holds them together but still allows a bit of movement like how a stock radiator.
For hose connections, I was fooled by the picture of this radiator. The 5/8" heater hose connection shown in the picture is actually plugged for some reason. Initially, I was planning to use a stock Defender lower radiator hose and route the heater hose directly to the radiator and make the reservoir non-pressurized, but since there is no provisions for the heater hose on the new radiator, I ended up using the stock lower radiator hose and adapting it with a piece of Dayco 71957 and the 1-1/2" OD steel pipe.
I bypassed the transmission cooler.
I bypassed the engine oil cooler.
Hope this helps.
1. Radiator: Summit Racing aluminum radiator that is for a S10 with a 350 swap. Part number 380473.
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...0473/overview/
2. Fan, 97-05 Malibu AC condenser dual fan with shroud. Dorman part number 620-618.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalo...Assemblies.pdf
3. Fan relay, I got a PIAA dual light relay kit, which is nothing special other than integrated fuse and two relays. You can make or buy the same type of relay harness from any aftermarket fog light manufacturer. Anything that supports a 30A relay will work. 30A relay per fan, need two of these harnesses. Fuse also recommended.
4. Fan controller, I used the thermostat housing off a Range Rover classic(I think some D1 with the distributor got the same) with provision for thermo switch. Part number ETC6135.
5. Thermo sensor, I used the same one off the Range Rover classic, part number PRC3359. 97 degrees on, 94 degress off. There are different temperatures for this sensor that are available so you can get the one you need for you desired temperature.
6. Incab switch. Wired as Manual ON/Manual OFF/Auto Thermo, also with LED indicator to show fan is running.
- Three position switch (ON/OFF/ON)
- Wired to turn relay on with ground signal.(Ground switching)
- On the switch: Upper terminal to ground. Middle terminal to fan relay ground(86 on relay). Lower terminal to thermo sensor(either will work).
- On thermo sensor: remaning terminal to ground.
- On relay: connector 85 to key ignition source(constant positive also work if you want fan operational with key off), connector 86 to middle terminal on incab switch, connector 30 to battery positive, connector 87 to fan motor positive.
- On LED indicator: Positive to keyed source. Negative to middle terminal of incab switch. (If not LED, any polarity will work).
7. Upper radiator hose, stock D1.
8. Lower radiator hose, stock D1.
9. Dayco 71957 x1
10. 1-1/2" OD steel tubing x3" long.
9. Lower radiator mount, stock radiator lower plate with the two pins.(Part of the stock radiator.)
11. Fan shroud mount, 2-1/4 x 1-1/2" perforated angle iron from Lowes.
Shop Steelworks 6-ft x 2-1/4-in Plated Steel Slotted Angle at Lowes.com
12. Upper fan shroud mount, 2/16"x1" aluminum bar, bent to shape as needed.
13. Rubber edging for fan shroud to prevent damage to radiator fins. Bushwacker part number 4201.
14. 2"x2"x3/4" rubber piece x2.
15. Stant 10203 0psi radiator cap.
The radiator basically sits on top of the stock lower radiator mounting plate with rubber feets(item #14), the fan assembly with shroud sandwiches the radiator and holds it in place. The upper aluminum straps holds them together but still allows a bit of movement like how a stock radiator.
For hose connections, I was fooled by the picture of this radiator. The 5/8" heater hose connection shown in the picture is actually plugged for some reason. Initially, I was planning to use a stock Defender lower radiator hose and route the heater hose directly to the radiator and make the reservoir non-pressurized, but since there is no provisions for the heater hose on the new radiator, I ended up using the stock lower radiator hose and adapting it with a piece of Dayco 71957 and the 1-1/2" OD steel pipe.
I bypassed the transmission cooler.
I bypassed the engine oil cooler.
Hope this helps.
#6
While oil cooler bypass is understood (some D2 have it, some don't); tranny cooler is kinda important. Maybe add an aftermarket cooler if it is an auto tranny. Please post pix.
BTW there is an aluminum rad with the tranny and oil cooler, about $240. Direct fit.
BTW there is an aluminum rad with the tranny and oil cooler, about $240. Direct fit.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 01-26-2014 at 06:00 AM.
#9
Trust me, I wanted to simply bolt on a replacement radiator, but our cost was $540CDN for a Nissen aluminum/plastic unit.
As for the transmission cooler, I retained the one in front of the AC condenser. I looped the lines for the engine oil cooler, which I immediately noticed how quick I got oil pressure upon startup. The oil light used to go out 10 seconds after I started up and now only takes one seconds. Maybe the old oil cooler in the radiator was a bit plugged. I don't think the oil cooler in our trucks are thermostatically controlled so oil always run thru the oil cooler even when it is not needed.
Here are some pics of my setup.
As for the transmission cooler, I retained the one in front of the AC condenser. I looped the lines for the engine oil cooler, which I immediately noticed how quick I got oil pressure upon startup. The oil light used to go out 10 seconds after I started up and now only takes one seconds. Maybe the old oil cooler in the radiator was a bit plugged. I don't think the oil cooler in our trucks are thermostatically controlled so oil always run thru the oil cooler even when it is not needed.
Here are some pics of my setup.