British Pacific has brand new alternators for $198 (Allmakes) and $243 (Denso). I went with the Denso and it's been great.

 

I hadn't thought of that. That would be one of the large fuses under the hood, correct?
Can I just pull the 100 amp and drop in a higher capacity one?

 

Some one please correct me if I am wrong...but doesn't the fusable link break the current from the battery to the rest of the truck and not from the alt to the battery?
So you can use as high of a amp output as you want and the worse that would happen is you fry the battery, which would not happen because the voltage regulator inside the alt would not allow that.
Am I correct on this or no? I am by far not a electrical guy, I can change a light bulb as long as I have instructions but thats about it.

 

no the alternator goes through that fuese block first, then to the battery, unless im looking wrong.
alternator came yesterday, fit and workes perfect. They also had a sale so it came out to 143 shipped.

 

Here's the drawing from the RAVE. Follow big brown wire from alternator - it goes to 150 amp fuse link and then to battery. There is no fuse between battery and fuse block, or between battery and starter. So if you put in a 350 amp custom alternator, you would need to do something with that 150 amp fuse link, which would become a choke point for extra Hellas. etc.

Note that if the 150 amp fuselink is blown, the battery is not charged. But the alternator is still producing positive voltage, so the dash light works normally (on at key turn, off after started and running). The Ultra Gauge would detect such an issue. Should such a failure happen, the fuse link could be bridged with something metal, but it will need to be more than one piece of tin foil. A piece of hose clamp, good sized wire, etc. If doing that I can't over state the fact that you place the vehicle in a condition where a fire could happen, so be careful, drive with no extras on, and remove the temporary patch if parked.