Alternator rebuild kit
For a while I've been investigating the prospects for rebuilding my original alternator and how temperamental our trucks can be with alternators of lesser quality.
Whilst cruising around another LR enthusiast site I stumbled upon a link to a shop in Dallas that had a kit for a P38/D2.
I called them up and asked about a kit for our D1's and here is the result....
https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com...-bearings.html
I haven't gotten around to testing mine yet in order to figure out what exactly I need, nor have I tested anything in the kit (I will eventually) but the folks at Maniac electric motors (specifically Christian) were super responsive to my request.
I will follow up when I get to the job of testing/rebuilding.
Whilst cruising around another LR enthusiast site I stumbled upon a link to a shop in Dallas that had a kit for a P38/D2.
I called them up and asked about a kit for our D1's and here is the result....
https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com...-bearings.html
I haven't gotten around to testing mine yet in order to figure out what exactly I need, nor have I tested anything in the kit (I will eventually) but the folks at Maniac electric motors (specifically Christian) were super responsive to my request.
I will follow up when I get to the job of testing/rebuilding.
I hunt down Gems P38 units. 20 more amps, and normally I can find original non refurbs for 25.00 that work excellent.
The 95 I recently acquired had very low AMP's coming from the cheap refurb. I had a spare 98 P38 unit and everyone told me it would not work due to the pulley being smaller, and the eyelet needed to be enlarged on the 95. They also mentioned the Tach would no longer be accurate without swapping the pulley. Well I took that challenge and came out victorious lol. Drill out eyelet check, mount 98 P38 120AMP check, leave smaller pulley check, and simply just install a Tach from a 98 D1 into the 95 cluster check!!! RPM's are perfect and I now have a much more common alternator and more AMP's to boot.
The 95 I recently acquired had very low AMP's coming from the cheap refurb. I had a spare 98 P38 unit and everyone told me it would not work due to the pulley being smaller, and the eyelet needed to be enlarged on the 95. They also mentioned the Tach would no longer be accurate without swapping the pulley. Well I took that challenge and came out victorious lol. Drill out eyelet check, mount 98 P38 120AMP check, leave smaller pulley check, and simply just install a Tach from a 98 D1 into the 95 cluster check!!! RPM's are perfect and I now have a much more common alternator and more AMP's to boot.
Last edited by Best4x4; Jan 21, 2020 at 08:49 PM.
Yeah, but you are a 4 star level LR fixer!!! It was actually one of your posts regarding which voltage regulator was correct for the 4.0 electronic ignition that was key (IX123). So I owe you a thanks!
For the rest of us pedestrians, a decent quality kit at a very cost effective price is attractive.
For the rest of us pedestrians, a decent quality kit at a very cost effective price is attractive.
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