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Am I going crazy or is there some trick to this brake pin?? Urgent.

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  #21  
Old 09-06-2010, 06:00 PM
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If you always wait for a problem to develop and then try to figure it out, you will get really frustrated. My advice is access the overall condition, what maintenance has been done and what was ignored,then try to catch up on the maj iemlike fluid andfilter changes, spark plugs and wires if they are not recent or are unknown.

Take a look at the 60K maintenance sticky and do as much as you are capable of then find some source of help on the rest of the stuff. The more you do yourself, the more affordable it is unless you screw up bad and end up damanaging it.

Download the RAVE and get familar with it so you can enjoy it. Otherwise, you are in for lots of frustration ahead.................
 
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by kenk
The quick RPM jump while slowing is probably you're transmission downshifting(normal)
I've been told that kenk, and sometimes it is, but sometimes it seems like it shifts back up and then down, and I know nothing is wrong with the Tranny. Also, I took it into an independent rover shop for help removing the transfer case bolt because I couldn't get it off without risking stripping it and the tech there, as well as another here confirmed that my tranny is strong so I'm pretty sure it's not that. Do you think that bad spark plugs might cause something like that? I haven't changed them yet, but it doesn't really seem consistent with a spark plug issue.

And yea Dan, I've been doing all that with the help of guys like you and spike so thanks again man I really appreciate it. I've done a good amount of the 60k stuff except, change my air filter, spark plugs, diff fluids, induction cleaning and greasing. I'm pretty sure the grease or diff fluids won't change that, so again, I'm thinking it could be the Spark plugs, or possibly the air filter. I'm also thinking i could've maybe messed up the stepper motor cleaning the IACV as I remember reading that being possible but the symptoms don't seem to match (rough idle, etc). What do you think? I'm gonna likely change the plugs and filter this week, if that doesn't fix it I'm not too worried. Like I said, two certified mechanics, one of them being a land rover tech commented on the surprisingly solid condition of it since the car's so old , so I could just be being paranoid.

Just wanna say thanks again to everyone up here, hopefully I can help contribute back with some help with a little bit of what I've learned.
 

Last edited by Hyakku; 09-07-2010 at 02:01 AM.
  #23  
Old 09-07-2010, 12:56 PM
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What I have found on my 97 which was not well maintained prior to me buying it is that often times, you start one small task and discover additional issues as you are trying to resolve one little thing. Parts that have corroded together, fluids that were ignored for too long, normal wear and tear for the age of the items. These lead into an ever growing series of problems until you address all the basics.

All transmissions when working normally will downshift at specific points as you coast and decel. This may feel like an RPM jump, if it is working properly, shifting as it should when you accelerate, don't read a problem in where none exists.

By all means, change those differential fluids as fast as possible if you have not done that already. Running it low and with possibly contaminated/worn fluids will lead to expensive problems fast.

The spark plugs can be removed and visually examined to see what their condition is. If they are not pristine, change them, they don't cost that much.

If you air filter is ignored, that will degrade engine performance since that is the breathing system for your engine.

And I would be very careful with vigorous cleaning of various delicate items. There have been some real horror stories of people blowing engines and such with some of the cleaning methods advocated by others on here.
Do these things and you will have a much better baseline to go from.
 

Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 09-07-2010 at 01:05 PM.
  #24  
Old 09-07-2010, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Hyakku
I've been told that kenk, and sometimes it is, but sometimes it seems like it shifts back up and then down, and I know nothing is wrong with the Tranny.
I watched what mine did today while driving. At 30-35 mph, if I leave off the throttle completley, my rpm's will drop to 1k or less(coasting at 35). Then it will jump a couple hundred when downshifting, but no where around 1.5K rpm's.
 
  #25  
Old 09-09-2010, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
What I have found on my 97 which was not well maintained prior to me buying it is that often times, you start one small task and discover additional issues as you are trying to resolve one little thing. Parts that have corroded together, fluids that were ignored for too long, normal wear and tear for the age of the items. These lead into an ever growing series of problems until you address all the basics.

All transmissions when working normally will downshift at specific points as you coast and decel. This may feel like an RPM jump, if it is working properly, shifting as it should when you accelerate, don't read a problem in where none exists.

By all means, change those differential fluids as fast as possible if you have not done that already. Running it low and with possibly contaminated/worn fluids will lead to expensive problems fast.

The spark plugs can be removed and visually examined to see what their condition is. If they are not pristine, change them, they don't cost that much.

If you air filter is ignored, that will degrade engine performance since that is the breathing system for your engine.

And I would be very careful with vigorous cleaning of various delicate items. There have been some real horror stories of people blowing engines and such with some of the cleaning methods advocated by others on here.
Do these things and you will have a much better baseline to go from.
Thats how I've been treating her Danny. A lot of my friends awe asking me why im fixing thing that aren't broken, but you articulated that reason perfectly.

IVe got a ton of work to d in the office, but I think what I'm just gonna do is go get all the supplies and call over the same guy that did the work with me for my brakes. He's a professional and more importantly if I can make it off work he can show me and guide me in doing some of these things, and he doesn't overcharge me, he'll likely do all of the above work with me for about 50 bucks.

Keno, it's recently just stopped, and it wasn't up to 1500 I rechecked it was closer to about 1200 or so. However, I'm thinking it could have been because I added that additive to the oil and the engine might have just been running it through the system.

By the way, is there any other way to check the fuel filter without taking it apart? I don't think anythings wrong, but if its a little gunked up I'd like to replace it if it'll increase fuel economy slightly as well. I'm really just a perfectionist heh.
 

Last edited by Hyakku; 09-09-2010 at 12:27 PM.
  #26  
Old 09-09-2010, 10:29 PM
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When my fuel filter sprang a leak, I already had one that was purchased for my wife Explorer that we had already sold. As I was replacing corroded fuel lines anyway, I relocated my fuel filter outside of the wheel well area and moved it forward somewhat on the frame. It was an in-line similar to the Rover one, but it just had straight tubes on each end, so I clamped it to the new fuel lines with good quality fuel injection rated clamps. I had also replace the fuel feed tube from the filler cap to the tank so i cut a section from the old feed tube and slid it over the new fuel filter. Then I clamped that to the frame. Worked fine.
 
  #27  
Old 09-10-2010, 08:54 AM
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If you want the amber, http://www.bputah.com/ has them for $10. If you want clear, get the ones for a 95-02 P-38 Range Rover. Pretty much the same thing. I got the clear one's for $15 several years ago, and it looks like RN has found out that people are not buying the expensive one's for the Disco and getting the one's from the RR. The clear are still cheaper for the Range Rover.
 
  #28  
Old 09-11-2010, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by okdiscoguy
If you want the amber, http://www.bputah.com/ has them for $10. If you want clear, get the ones for a 95-02 P-38 Range Rover. Pretty much the same thing. I got the clear one's for $15 several years ago, and it looks like RN has found out that people are not buying the expensive one's for the Disco and getting the one's from the RR. The clear are still cheaper for the Range Rover.
Thanks brother, ordered this morning and its on the way, great guys to talk to on the phone as well, love being able to support home grown business.

Danny bro, you were right, good thing I took are of it. It was definitely the spark plugs, auto zone was out of my coppere ones, and so were most in the area (I actually had the wrong size), luckily, I had the same guy who helped with my brakes over and I was able to get the Bosch platinum +4 s installed and haven't noticed a drop off in power like others have said, and mod importantly its completely fixed that ever so often random surging, the old plugs did NOT look like they were in good cond either.

Also replaced my air filter, greased the fittings and he helped change my diff fluids. Ive gotta say she drives completely different from when I got her a couple of weeks ago, cant wait to get this light so I can feel complete. My next two things I want to grab are a steel brush guard and a small amp/sub system to augment the ones we have (treble is great, BAss is kind of poor).

The last mechanical thing I've got to look at eventually is a slight power steering leak, I may just replace the power steering box with a used one for around 300 if I can find one and just be done with it. Its a very small leak but its definitely there and I'm pretty sure its not in the hose but every two or three days there will be like a drop or two of tranny fluid from the ps reservoir on one of my front rods. Still, cant complain, glad we caught it early while it's still nothing major.


Oh and forgive any typos guys, Sometimes I'm on this ipad and it auto corrects stuff.
 
  #29  
Old 09-12-2010, 09:39 AM
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I would try White Shepard on the PS leak. It did wonders for mine and mine was like a 4" puddle every morning. It is way cheaper than a new gearbox or pump and like I said it worked wonders.
 
  #30  
Old 09-12-2010, 06:35 PM
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Now doesn't it feel good to have fresh spark plugs and fresh diff fluid in her.

Sorry to be so critical in my first post, but I wanted you to see reality, not say "Oh everything will be fine..."

Glad to hear you made progress. I put new spark plug wires on mine as well. I used the ProLine ones from Rovers North and I am happy with them for the price. I know a lot of people on here advocate the more expensive ones but I am happy with mine.

The more you do on your Disco, the better you will know and understand it, the more fun it becomes. And don't let a simple cotter pin kick your butt again.
 


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