am I KO'd
#12
04-17-2011, 03:42 PM
Winching
#13
04-17-2011, 11:02 PM
I'm going for it.
I am having a friend do a little grinding and welding on the webbing, careful not to go below the piston TDC travel (you can feel a slight ring in the bore) and also not to do any damage to the steel sleeve. He's game.
Then I'm goning to take a router (yes, for woodworking) and an aluminum machining endmill and set it to zero depth. The RPM of the router is not variable, so I go nice and slow across the bead using 90% isopropyl alcohol as a coolant (won't rust my main bearings if a little drips in). I can finish with a angle grinder and polisher.
Then I'll put it all back together, change my oil, and see what I get.
I am having a friend do a little grinding and welding on the webbing, careful not to go below the piston TDC travel (you can feel a slight ring in the bore) and also not to do any damage to the steel sleeve. He's game.
Then I'm goning to take a router (yes, for woodworking) and an aluminum machining endmill and set it to zero depth. The RPM of the router is not variable, so I go nice and slow across the bead using 90% isopropyl alcohol as a coolant (won't rust my main bearings if a little drips in). I can finish with a angle grinder and polisher.
Then I'll put it all back together, change my oil, and see what I get.
#16
04-19-2011, 04:10 AM
Mudding
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Alaska
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm going for it.
I am having a friend do a little grinding and welding on the webbing, careful not to go below the piston TDC travel (you can feel a slight ring in the bore) and also not to do any damage to the steel sleeve. He's game.
Then I'm goning to take a router (yes, for woodworking) and an aluminum machining endmill and set it to zero depth. The RPM of the router is not variable, so I go nice and slow across the bead using 90% isopropyl alcohol as a coolant (won't rust my main bearings if a little drips in). I can finish with a angle grinder and polisher.
Then I'll put it all back together, change my oil, and see what I get.
I am having a friend do a little grinding and welding on the webbing, careful not to go below the piston TDC travel (you can feel a slight ring in the bore) and also not to do any damage to the steel sleeve. He's game.
Then I'm goning to take a router (yes, for woodworking) and an aluminum machining endmill and set it to zero depth. The RPM of the router is not variable, so I go nice and slow across the bead using 90% isopropyl alcohol as a coolant (won't rust my main bearings if a little drips in). I can finish with a angle grinder and polisher.
Then I'll put it all back together, change my oil, and see what I get.
#17
04-20-2011, 02:15 PM
I don't know. Of course the gasket was also compromised at that location, and i did drive it for a week stumbling and missing.
My advise - don't drive it like that.
The surface is a mixture of a "cracked" edge as well as worn - as if the failure was first of all a crack or chip, and then the speed of the hot gasses through the rupture wore some of the jagged edge away.
I did not find any "chips" and the pistons themselves have not marks on them at all. The crack is above TDC on the 1 and 3 cylinders so it was not a matter of the piston catching an edge.
ANYONE KNOW THE ALLOY OF THE BLOCK? 356?
My advise - don't drive it like that.
The surface is a mixture of a "cracked" edge as well as worn - as if the failure was first of all a crack or chip, and then the speed of the hot gasses through the rupture wore some of the jagged edge away.
I did not find any "chips" and the pistons themselves have not marks on them at all. The crack is above TDC on the 1 and 3 cylinders so it was not a matter of the piston catching an edge.
ANYONE KNOW THE ALLOY OF THE BLOCK? 356?
#19
04-22-2011, 06:31 PM
Recovery Vehicle
