Thanks SB for the info, I'll give them a shout.

For those looking at ebay rads......the one seller has a 20% off deal for a few more days. I'm going to order one, under $200 shipped:

ebay aluminum radiator (Disco 1, RRC)

Cheers.

 

why not the insurance paid $800.00 to replace mine in the classic, I have no problem with saving $600.00, just ordered one.

 

Ok I have a question about this OE rad thing.......I've been doing some research, mainly looking for a shop that can "rod out" and "clean" the stock rad. First, specifically, what is "rodding it out?" Sticking some type of cleaning brush/rod into the rad to clean it as the muriatic acid does its thing? Or is it a misnomer? Anyone know details of the actual process? I read about a shop removing the tanks, acid bath, rodding it out, and resoldering the tanks. I understand soldering and the acid bath....but again, what is rodding it out?

During my research I've found several sources which indicate doing this DIY is not a big deal. Obviously dealing with acid means care must be taken but this isn't alien blood acid. I guess the part I'm a bit confused on is why the tanks are removed...some better access is afforded? Just curious, I'd like to understand it further. I found a shop nearby that said they'd do the acid bath for ~$100 but as much as I've read, I can do that my self.

I'll keep checking for shops and ask them as many questions as they care to answer, figured I'd check here too. I will share any info I gain.

Cheers.

 

Answered my own questions with further googling. Exactly as it says....removing to tanks to expose the cooling tubes. Using an appropriate sized rod, insert and clean off scale and other deposits. I'd guess this is AFTER the muriatic acid bath but perhaps before and after.

Cheers.

 

The problem is dealing with the side tanks. On a D1, they unsolder easily, old rad guys have done this for decades. On the D2 rad, with plastic side tanks, they make tools to deal with the crimps, but the tanks are usually so brittle this is a bad path. I tried the following with a D1 rad - chemical flush in truck, remove rad and lay flat and treat with muriatic acid (makes some parts very bright) - and I still had scale buidlup and overheating. Took to rad shop, did the hot citric acid flush, and rod out ($75) and working great. New rad would have saved me a bunch of time.

 

Interesting......all the reading I've done indicates the citric acid is not as good as muriatic. But with muriatic you must have the correct concentration....30%ish vs say 14%ish in typical pool cleaners. The posts I've read indicate procedure is to remove the rad, water flush it, add muriatic and let it sit. The sitting time varies from 10-15mins to when it stops bubbling. Flush it with water again, use something to neutralize any remaining acid, flush, good to go.

Agreed, anything with a plastic side tank I'd pretty much recycle and move on. And that's what I'm used to, the Disco is the first vehicle I've owned that has a serviceable rad. I just need to know what all these processes are. If I can get it bathed AND rodded for $100 I'll do that, it's worth my time vs doing that myself. But I just have to understand it more.

Any chance you have a larger/hires version of that pic? I've seen that before but it's postage stamp sized. ; )

Cheers.

 

That is not a D1 rad, just a generic to show what lurks inside. I remember being able to remove the raditor bung nipple and peer down the passnger side take, you could see white buildup on the ends of the tubes. Some have run a "snake camera" down inside. As for the citric acid, it is done while being circulated, so the shop had a pump that sloshed it through. Mercedes sells citric acid packets, I think you need two pounds for a whole system. We have also had a write up on Borax washing powder booster, I have not tried that. Did try the white vingear, forgot about that one.

Noobies beware - strong brick washing acid can eat aluminum a lot faster than you think.

For all of us, a clean radiator will work better and last longer. If you wait until it is really sludged up, most likely it won't come clean with just a flush. If you go by that 150,000 mile stuff for the LR3, you'll be buying a new rad as well. Those high miles drain intervals shift service cost off the lease vehicles to later owners who are out of warranty.