For the second time now, while driving on a bumpy (washboard) road, my hazard lights came on and would not turn off. I tracked the clicking sound (like a flasher solenoid) to what looks like an ECU, just under the glovebox, against the passenger side kick panel. When I disconnect the closest (rearmost in the vehicle) plug, the hazards stop flashing and all is well. The only thing I can tell is different is that now my power locks or key fob will not lock/unlock the doors. Can I assume this is the ECU for the security system? Why has it caused my hazard lights to come on? Any idea what the other plug does?

 

The green plastic box is the alarm ecu. What is happening is you are tripping the inertia switch going over those bumps. It is telling your ecu that you have been in an accident which then causes the hazards to flash. If you hit those bumps hard enough, it could cut off your fuel supply. Next time check the switch mounted on the bulkhead just to the left (as you're standing in front of the truck) of the windshield washer reservior. It has a plunger on top. Try pushing that to see if it shuts off your hazards.

I am not certain but your fob may need to be resynced with the ECU now that you have disconnected it. Earlier single button fobs could be done by the owner following a certain procedure. That can't be done on later DI's with GEMS.

 

After disconnecting/ re-connecting the two plugs and trying the ignition (starts with the grey one off but not with the green one) a couple times, the hazards shut off and the locks and key fob all work. Awfully touchy for a truck as capable off road as these. Wish I had one without all the electronic crap- no alarm, no power windows or seats...oh well, good with the bad, I guess.

 

It was not intended for high speed driving on washboard roads. Slow down is my best advice.

When I lived in Denver, my daily commute to work included about a mile or two of terrible washboard roads. I had a 74 Cutlass. At slow speeds the road was horribly rough. If I got it up to about 60 mph on the paved section then hit the washboard, it just skimmed across the tops of the bumps but was hard to hold in a straight line.

Driving it like that, the loose sand removed all the paint down to bare metal on the lower fender panels where they curved under.

 

I am trying to replace the keyless entry module on my 2000 Land Rover Discovery. I have the glove box out and the lower panel as well. Where and what does this look like so I can replace it? Need an answer pretty quick as I have the car taken apart.Thanks

 

You're in the wrong section. This is D1. You should start your own post, not piggy back on another.

Anyway, it's a black box that says Valeo on it.





There is a bolt that goes through where my finger is.

You'll need a special scan tool to sync everything up if you're replacing this part.

 

Also there is a transmitter for the keyless above the headliner.

 

I am sorry I posted in the wrong section. Thanks for correcting me. This is my first time here so I would consider it a "rookie check". Thanks again for the information. I am headed outside to see if I can find it.

 

I don't see anything like the picture of the box Jafir. No box marked Valeo. Could the anti theft box be anywhere else? The box I bought is supposed to be a direct replacement but nothing looks like it and its a small box. Can you tell me what it may be attached too? Is it somewhere behind the glove box? I appreciate any help you can give.

 

On a d2 there are about 3-4 computer boxes behind the glove box. If you remove the card board cover under the box you should be able to see all of the electrical harnesses plugged into them.

I don't recall the exact order, but there will be a black metal box with wabco on it. That's the ABS computer. A black plastic box with Valeo. That's the Body Control unit. A silver box mounted to the the body with Bosch on the label. That's the ECU. There could be an ACE computer too, but I've never owned an ace equipped d2 so I don't know what the computer looks like.

Also, i doubt the box you've got will replace the BCU. This box does way too much, from rolling the windows up and down to telling the transmission what gear you're in. It's not just security. There is a security code sent from the BCU to the ECU that will keep the engine from running if not synchronized.