I say every 50,000 miles or everytime you change the rotors, whichever is sooner.
If you cheat on the rears you never need to repack them, you cant cheat on the fronts though.
I cheated on my rears.

 

Check out the sockets branded/advertised for Jeeps. Most are set up for a 1/2" drive and cost less than the sockets advertised for LRs. They're the same size.

 

Yeah Danny...I didn't get the standard one. I bought an actual socket, since I wanted to be exact on the torque specs.

 

I got my socket made at a local welding shop. It was cheap and it fits my 1/2 torque wrench. I re-pack my bearings before winter hits every year. Never had a bearing issue with any of my 4x4 vehicles.

 

Live and learn, I will eventually get a real socket for myself. The adapter is a step above using giant pliers or a hammer and a chisel like some I read about.

 

Bearing analysis will tell you why they are failing. If you don't know what to look for, here's a good document. http://www.timken.com/en-us/products...ments/6347.pdf

I'm assuming you're making sure the races are seated well on installation.

The end float spec for the bearings is 0.010mm and if you use that spec you don't need a torque wrench or a hub nut socket that needs one. End float measurement is the way I do it.

 

Tom,

Great information. Is there some more detailed reference material available on this method?

What tools/measuring devices are needed? I would assume a good vernier or similar machinist tools?

 

RAVE page 501, there is a LR special tool needed