Well, I've posted a few questions and have done some research and trials.
I have an intermittent start that has gotten worse. I went out after work and it wouldn't start at all. In the past, it would start after waiting a while.
When I went to lock the doors this morning, the central locking would not work.
(I only have a key, no fob)
I know it isn't the ignition switch... I can "bypass" the immobilzer by splicing the two wires as instructed elsewhere on the forum at the ecu for pins 10 + 11 (black with orange stripe). When I do this, it'll crank, but not fire. I believe that's because the alarm has also shut power to the coil and fuel pump.(?)
I don't believe it's the neutral switch for the same reason.
I have never had an alarm indicator light on the dash come on (bad bulb, ???)
Does anyone know the outputs from the alarm ecu for the coil and fuel pump? I can't figure out the diagrams in the RAV manual.
Is there a reason I couldn't hard wire the ignition, coil and fuel pump like in older rigs?
Thanks for any thoughts/suggestions.

 

First see if you can find which is not working, fuel or spark. Pull a sparkplug wire and put an old plug in and ground the outside of the plug against the motor and have someone turn the motor over. you should see a spark jump.

You can check the fuel pump pressure on the fuel rail on the right side of the motor, You will see a fuel line with a valve that has a cap on it (should have a cap) about the size of a tire valve. Under that cap is a schrader valve, the same as a tire valve. depressing the center pin should shoot gas out quite a ways. Be careful not to be in front of it and watch out for the spray, if the gas just dribbles out with no pressure, then the fuel pump isn't running. The pump only runs for about 10-15 seconds unless the motor starts. Turn the key all the way off and back on to get an additional 10-15 sec. It doesn't run continuous unless the motor is running.

When you first turn on the key, you should hear a bunch of clicks from the passenger side footwell. There are 3 or 4 relays that should come on to activate the fuel pump and ignition. If you hear a bunch of rapid clicks, then something is drawing the power down and it won't start (probably a bad ground) Unfortunately the relays aren't marked, so the only way I could find the one for the fuel pump was to go by the wire color and size at the inertia switch under the hood. Don't let the bunch of relays under the glove box fool you, there are about 4 more BEHIND the kick panel back where the door hinges are. That is where the one that controls the fuel pump is located.

In the RAVE manual, keep in mind you have a NAS version and it is without the spyder unit. it makes a difference as to which wire to look for.


**Only had my LR for a short time but I have fought through a few electrical problems. Not an expert, just determined to make this truck run.**

 

Sinner....put the details of your vehicle in your signature so we have an idea about some of the specifics. Helps diagnose problems.

 

Thanks, will do!

 

Thanks, jimvw57. I just got the beast towed home tonight. The central lock from the driver's door has quit now, as well. I won't get a chance to dig into it until Monday. I'm pretty sure I'm not getting any spark, because when I jump the wires to get it to crank I get absolutely no attempt to fire. I think the alarm has shut down the starter, coil and pump. When I first turn the key I do get some clicks, but not a bunch of rapid ones. I tried the eka procedure with no joy. While I was sitting inside it, I manually locked and unlocked the door several (7-10) times and could hear the ecu making a bunch of computer type noises.
I'm thinking I'm going to disconnect the central locking, find which relays go to the pump, coil, and starter, and wire them direct to the ignition, as in a vehicle without the ant-theft system. If anyone knows the correct relays behind the kick panel, I'd really appreciate it if you'd share that info with me!
Thanks for the help thus far!