Back at it + Updates
Thanks for the photos! Noticed the rearview mirror is on its way out. There's an online company (Radar-Mirror) that will fix that for not too much. I tried getting a replacement from a junkyard, but it did not last very long, the OEM mirrors don't like the heat. The gel will drip out if it goes too far, not easy to clean up.
Does y’all’s ignition light get extremely hott? I’m worried if I leave it in and plugged up it’s gonna burn to the ground.
Last edited by MasonJ; Apr 28, 2025 at 02:26 PM.
I purchased a 1998 D1 from the breaker yard - it was pretty complete - it only took about 400 hours of labor and $20K in parts and I sold it for $4K - what a deal
someone I know once said - "are you crazy or just plain stupid" ?
someone I know once said - "are you crazy or just plain stupid" ?
Last edited by disco96sd; Apr 28, 2025 at 11:14 PM.
“I’m here for the memories that will be made along the way”
Well, I did destroy a few small pieces. Good news is that the AC still worked after a re-wire, and it blew ice cold. For how long once it’s all said and done? Who knows. But alas, I’m having fun and feeling inspired again.
Does your Ignition light get very hot? Worried to leave mine plugged in. Seems to get immediately very hot and after all this work of it were the cause of the vehicle to catch fire I’d actually lose my mind.
Does your Ignition light get very hot? Worried to leave mine plugged in. Seems to get immediately very hot and after all this work of it were the cause of the vehicle to catch fire I’d actually lose my mind.
ignition light - are you referring to what's in the cluster or the light around the key in the steering? I have not noticed any heat anywhere for ignition but if you have the cluster out it would make sense to feel heat from the bulbs. I could also see the key light getting warm too ( but never noticed) being they are all non-LED type bulbs.
FYI What will get hot is the HVAC fan speed switch. Take the time to take it apart, soak in white vinegar (to remove corrosion) clean with rubbing alcohol and apply some dielectric grease to the contact areas. If fan position 3 or 4 works but then stops - its likely from overheating switch via poor contact/corrosion. For me this was most noticeable on hot days with AC at full for over 30min.
AC still working is impressive!
ignition light - are you referring to what's in the cluster or the light around the key in the steering? I have not noticed any heat anywhere for ignition but if you have the cluster out it would make sense to feel heat from the bulbs. I could also see the key light getting warm too ( but never noticed) being they are all non-LED type bulbs.
FYI What will get hot is the HVAC fan speed switch. Take the time to take it apart, soak in white vinegar (to remove corrosion) clean with rubbing alcohol and apply some dielectric grease to the contact areas. If fan position 3 or 4 works but then stops - its likely from overheating switch via poor contact/corrosion. For me this was most noticeable on hot days with AC at full for over 30min.
ignition light - are you referring to what's in the cluster or the light around the key in the steering? I have not noticed any heat anywhere for ignition but if you have the cluster out it would make sense to feel heat from the bulbs. I could also see the key light getting warm too ( but never noticed) being they are all non-LED type bulbs.
FYI What will get hot is the HVAC fan speed switch. Take the time to take it apart, soak in white vinegar (to remove corrosion) clean with rubbing alcohol and apply some dielectric grease to the contact areas. If fan position 3 or 4 works but then stops - its likely from overheating switch via poor contact/corrosion. For me this was most noticeable on hot days with AC at full for over 30min.
I was referring to the bulb in the ignition cluster, around the key hole, the red light, and I did notice the fan speed selector wire harness had a burnt connection on the old and the new. So the fix there is to soak those in white vinegar and then use dielectric grease? If so I will do that for sure!
I was referring to the bulb in the ignition cluster, around the key hole, the red light, and I did notice the fan speed selector wire harness had a burnt connection on the old and the new. So the fix there is to soak those in white vinegar and then use dielectric grease? If so I will do that for sure!
I would repair that burnt connection as best you can. if the housing is a bit warped but the wire insulation is still good - ie not hard and burnt I would prolly let it ride. but if the insulation is damaged I would remove/replace with some heat strink around it - 2 layers if possible and mabye some electrical tape- basically recreate the damaged insulation.
for the switch yeah, just be careful in disassembly not to break the plastic tabs. bath in alcohol after vinegar. I usually let it soak in vinegar for about 1hr then scrub with a toothbrush - may be steel wool if you can get it in there
The fan switch operates at high amperage and a little bit of corrosion makes those amps soar. The fan switches are getting hard to find, but if you find a truck with the rear a/c or heat, the fan switch is the same (overhead console)
ignition cluster is prolly just the bulb heat.
I would repair that burnt connection as best you can. if the housing is a bit warped but the wire insulation is still good - ie not hard and burnt I would prolly let it ride. but if the insulation is damaged I would remove/replace with some heat strink around it - 2 layers if possible and mabye some electrical tape- basically recreate the damaged insulation.
for the switch yeah, just be careful in disassembly not to break the plastic tabs. bath in alcohol after vinegar. I usually let it soak in vinegar for about 1hr then scrub with a toothbrush - may be steel wool if you can get it in there
I would repair that burnt connection as best you can. if the housing is a bit warped but the wire insulation is still good - ie not hard and burnt I would prolly let it ride. but if the insulation is damaged I would remove/replace with some heat strink around it - 2 layers if possible and mabye some electrical tape- basically recreate the damaged insulation.
for the switch yeah, just be careful in disassembly not to break the plastic tabs. bath in alcohol after vinegar. I usually let it soak in vinegar for about 1hr then scrub with a toothbrush - may be steel wool if you can get it in there
Mine does have the overhead in the rear. I actually need to test it to see if it work. The rear sunroof doesn’t. I need to test all the fuses. That will get fixed when the headliner does. Which will be dead last 😂
yes once switch is apart soak all switch parts that contain copper in vinegar
the contact plate is riveted to the plastic housing - vinegar wont hurt the plastic.
plug/connector prolly does not have corrosion - its mainly copper bits.
FYI this also works for renewing other switches - did my A/C and recirculate switches while I was in there
Small plastic zip ties can be used to keep tabs lifted for switch disassembly - it is tedious
the contact plate is riveted to the plastic housing - vinegar wont hurt the plastic.
plug/connector prolly does not have corrosion - its mainly copper bits.
FYI this also works for renewing other switches - did my A/C and recirculate switches while I was in there
Small plastic zip ties can be used to keep tabs lifted for switch disassembly - it is tedious


