So like I have mentioned in another post that I found that my piston rod bearings are in serious condition. I removed my oil pan to replace the RTV gasket and found the oil suction tube nearly consumed by silicone. This and other related factors I'm sure have caused the premature wear of rod bearings. My question is in concern of the knock sensors. My theory is that the sensors are noticing the bad rod bearings and retarding the ignition on multiple cylinders. Does anyone have experience with this subject? I have ordered new rod bearings to replace the bad ones, so I'll be able to tell if the sensors are actually faulting the engine performance. I have taken signal readings from the knock sensors but have nothing to compare them to until I replace the bearings. So far the only real noise I hear in my engine is from the rod bearings. I'm going to drop the crank shaft and replace the crank bearings too, because they are probably in the same condition. Perfect chance to fix my rear main leak. Anyone know if the knock sensors will mess with ignition from bearing noise and play?

 

Don't you have to send the block away to a machine shop to be polished?? Just because the bearings don't come finished from land rover?? Or is that just with the camshaft??

 

If the wear has actually entered into the crankshaft material then yes, you would need to turn the crank down. If you can catch the bearings early, the only thing that wears is the bearing because it is softer metal. Just replace the bearings and use a gauge to check for cap wear. Luckily I cought mine early enough to just change the bearings out.

 

Just change our the bearings and you should be good. As long as the con. rod and crank journals are not worn.

To drop the crank, you will have to remove the engine or drop the tranny also as the crank is bolted to the tranny by either the flexplate/torque convertor(auto) or the flywheel(manual).

 

Yes, but the engine can stay in place. I'll just un-bolt and move the tranny for access.

 

i hope i never need to do that.. i will know tomorrow, pulling oil pan, front cover....

 

Not necessarily the best suggestion, first clean out the engine of any remaining silicone, put it back together then do an oil pressure test, cold at idle and 2000 RPM's and hot at idle and 2000 RPM's. You may find that you may need to inspect the oil pump for debrit and or a failed gear.

 

Thanks Disco Mike, already in my thought bank. I have a brand new spare oil pump ready. I'm just going to pull the motor this weekend. I have been thinking someone got the timeing wrong since I have owned this thing, so I'm going to tear it down. When I bought this 99 last year it had the upper half rebuilt. New heads and gaskets. Not sure whats underneath the valve covers yet, but expect to find some severe wear from the lack of good oil supply. Tired of this motor and expect that the previous re-builder messed up just as bad as useing the 10 gallons of RTV.

 

While I'm sure it was on your radar, the oil cooler in the radiator could also be a catch point for blockages. I had a used rad once that was 99% blocked on the oil side. Oil light would not go out. When you peer down the threaded hole on top it appears spiral, not sure if shop air or WD40 or something (flexible wire) could be "run" thru to verify it is clean and free flowing. Not sure if mechanical oil psi test would show different readings if a marginal cooler was bypassed for testing with hose and clamps.

 

Yes thanks. Everything will be measured and weighed.