Are u sure it’s a battery drain that’s causing your starting issue? Two drains I found in mine were the cheapo 10 Mlb winch I put on (disconnecting beg winch lead fixed this) and my glove box light which wouldn’t turn off. Glove box took a while to diagnose but it was post on this forum that lead me to it. As far as starting issues, had a TPS fail on me and that was a fun one to diagnose but after R&R starting issues havent resurfaced.

 

I looked everywhere after discovering back light near rear upper window wasn't shutting completely off. Storms here and no garage so will up date what I find when do with battery. throttle position sensor don't know. I just think that when you go to mechanic they should check things like what could be draining TPS etc. I guess I am old fashioned. ; ) Thanks

 

If that back light is ON, especially in cold temps it can no doubt kill a battery! You are well on the right track, good on you.

I'm with you 100%, a mechanic SHOULD be checking this trucks problem correctly and not just throwing parts (alt, starter, battery...) at it. Has anyone load tested the battery? If the problem is an open draw then they need to hunt the CAUSE!!! (and it looks like YOU found it). It drives me mental when people bring something to a mechanic, pay good money and this is the outcome. Forget unfair, it's just total B$!

RE: The wire from the battery to the alternator mount is just an attempt to make a "better" ground. Not uncommon when you add accessories like a winch or high amp draw stereo system. OR if someone suspected this truck had/has a ground problem (ie a HalfA$$ fix). If you plan to leave it in place I would remove the nut (alternator side) and clean the contact with sandpaper. Then use some dielectric grease to reduce corrosion. By the looks of the terminal no one did this the first time it (or the alternator) was installed. I still don't like the way the terminal is mounted to the battery cable.

When was the Alternator installed? With the corrosion that is on the case it makes me wonder if the wires are also in the same condition (if the mech didn't grease the ground terminal I'm sure they didn't lube the connections on the alt).

Things to have checked (EVEN if the back light is the ONLY cause):

> Get the battery load tested. Advance Auto will do this for FREE and give you the print out.
> Check the condition of the ground wire from the starter to the frame. If corroded replace. Clean the frame contact w sandpaper and grease before install.
> Check the Negative Battery Cable Terminal (as mentioned before)
> Check the wires to the Alternator for corrosion
> Check/clean contacts of all 5 door switches and spray plungers with silicone or WD40

Something to consider (even when all is fixed), if this truck isn't driven everyday you might want to get a battery charger/tender (eg CTEK).

 

Will do thanks. Yes I have a CTEK. I will also go to local Advanced Auto ...know they have a good guy there.

 

Great thread, thanks folks.

 

Definitely check the mounts for your grounds to frame. They corrode terribly. I had to dremel mine clean to get a good contact point. Might wanna check the ground off the starter too. Not a cable per se more like a mesh type.

Multimeter your battery with engine off after its ran a few min and is charged up, should be around 12.5V. Then check it periodically over several hours and see what’s up. A drain should be evident.

 

Update:

I went to have alternator checked and battery. I did take off the ground from battery to alternator before I went. Did not make a difference. Alternator tested 14.2 The store gave me a new battery but said that it is moving around because it did not have the part that holds it steady. It can damage battery if moving around and break walls? They didn’t have anything there to hold it steady so when I returned home I put styrofoam at sides of battery to hold it from tilting. I don’t think it will start on fire or anything. Truck started fine but the idle was really low so kept stalling out after he put battery in. Did not do that before. Took to shop near there and they just upped the idle and fine. How long should I wait to test battery now to see if there is any drain on it? I will buy that part to hold it and I wanted to completely replace ground from other side of battery to frame of truck. Found part number for cable to frame
and battery strap and will purchase. Not trying to be stupid just brain injury so a bit slow and directions are GREAT! Thanks rover guys.

 

Start checking for drains NOW.
As far as the battery moving around I haven’t had the holder on mine in years. Probably not best practice on my part, but.... I have to imagine it’d take a collision or some serious off-roading to cause an issue. The cables are pretty snug with no play so it can’t really go anywhere. I have an optima and the stock hold down don’t fit it. Probably should fab something....

 

If your battery is moving and you dont have that hold in place bracket, than cut yourself a few pieces of small wood that can be wedged in place around the battery as a temporary solution until you can get what you need.
All the battery movement can cause the terminal to loosen over time.

 

The truck is fine. Battery now reads full after 2 mile treks to 30 mile treks. I have read it this morning when truck is on and then off.

On readings are Battery 14.5-14.6
Alternator 13.8-14.6

Off Reading are Battery 14.6
Alternator 4.9

Does this make sense? I have shown pic of Stanley reader to assist you. Thanks rover guys.