Well family day at the beach has turned out to be a nightmare. Discovered the all wheel drive is useless in sugar sand, it will not go into diff lock and over heated. As of now I don't know what damage has been done due to the over heat issue. At least the Family is getting to enjoy the beach as I sit here contemplating how the hell I'm gonna get us outta here...

 

yikes that sux. I have read via forum that that diff lock can get "cruded up...sticky" if not exercised once in a while. hope your overheating did not do too much damage. (lemonade) at least it left you stranded at the beach, that could be worse.... could have been in the parking lot at work. good luck

 

Try to get it into lock, as much wiggling as you can. I was able to take out the shift lever cover and work my way down to remove some big rubber noise pad that is in there, then use a thin straw on a can of PB Blaster to slide down along the seal around the shift lever. Did not have to take whole thing apart.

Tow strap in a careful manner and friendly local? Wrecker? You are well above the high tide line?

As for overheating, how far above 50% on the gauge did it go, or do you have digital numbers? Steam, boil over, hose rock hard or blown off? It is possible to cool down the vehicle with icewater poured across radiator.

Beer for a bunch of guys who are playing tug-o-war?

 

You can crawl under on pass side and there is a lever with small piece of linkage above where the drive shafts attach to transfer case, if you can turn that it will lock the diff, you may bend the linkage and need to fix it later linkage is crap, once on hard surface you must unlock diff or serious damage will result

More then likely the CD shifter is seized some have got them free with lube and force, mine was a 6+hour ordeal that required romoval and lead/ hammer brass punch as the cross pin that allows the shifte to move left right was locked in place by rust, no amount of lube and force would have fixed this

Good luck

 

The beach was a good thing, washed away a bit of stress while waiting to cool down.

 

pegged in the red, pressure pushed some fluid out, couldn't see from where. low engine oil pressure light came on. enjoyed beach as much as I could while cooling down. added what little water I had. got it cranked oil light went out, headed out, got caught in traffic pegged again in red, made it to a store where a Jeep owner gave me access to tools and assistance! The short hose that connects the block to heater core ruptured. Bypassed the HC and filled with 50/50 mix, Oil light came back on. It would not run over 50 mph, made it about 25 miles and temp started to creep back up. Pegged in red again about 2 miles from house, got to house opened hood walked to back to unload and the HC hose blew. Thank god my kids nor me was standing there when it blew.

 

Glad everyone is safe. I fear the engine is not.

 

Cooling issue is simple enough, thought I had it fixed but guess not. I know the things I need to check next on that, my concern now is the oil light staying on and the fact that it would not go over 50 mph on the drive home. Whatever is causing it to miss when water gets in engine compartment reared its ugly head of course. Once it dried out it would reach 50 mph but that's it. I don't any knocking or pinging from block and noticed no oil blown out...

 

Thoughts:

1. Oil light comes on at 7 PSI. Oil heated way hotter than normal thins out, so these two are related. If you were running 10W30 this would happen sooner than with 15W40.

2. You'll want to check oil level, it should not be higher on the stick from coolant dumping to oil. A drain and refill of oil will confirm there is no coolant in the oil (milkshake). Coolant in oil very bad for bearings.

3. While they are still open, hit the parts stores and borrow/rent a coolant pressure tester. That way you can check for leaks without running the engine. Get a new 180F stat, maybe old stat was bad. $10 ish and a gasket.

4. Remove and inspect plugs, steam cleaning may be evident.

5. Get it full of 50/50 coolant, bleed out the air, and see what it will idle at. Without AC on, and a 180F stat, my D1 would idle this morning in 93F at 187F after 25 minutes. If you have a scanner to monitor OBDII temp that is great. Otherwise don't go over 50% on stock gauge. Pix shows what kind of temp is just above 50%. In the red is like 280F. Head gaskets can start to have problems around 235-240.....

6. Coolant in cylinders can cause all sorts of misfires.

7. You will be lucky if you don't need a head gasket. If you do, by doing the work yourself it can be done for about $250 machine shop (maybe less) and a gasket kit and head bolts, which are under $200.

 

First, thanks for all your input. I've checked the oil, the level on the stick was the same as it was last night. No signs of coolant in oil via the stick. If nothing is Damaged it will be nothing short of a miracle. Oh the thermostat was a brand new Land Rover Original.