I replaced rotors, pads and wheel bearings all all the way round, but my pedal is still a bit soft when the system is active (i.e. truck running). It isn't unsafe soft, but not what I would expect with new hardware.

So, I did the old-skool bleeding trick with a buddy, and that sort of helped, though not by much.

While bleeding each wheel, I noticed:

1. New fluid is about 3 shades lighter that what came out of the calipers
2. There appeared to be a little dirt or corrosion in the fluid that came out
3. There were minimal air bubbles

I assumed item 1 was due to a different fluid manufacturer. I am using DOT 4 to replace, and I can only hope that that is what is in there given the PO had it serviced at a shop.

I have never had the system flushed *prepares to be bludgeoned* so I am guessing a good flush might be the next step.

Do you folks have a good recommendation for a self-flushing system that does NOT require an air compressor?

I want to be able to use this again and on my wife's car when it needs it, so going to the shop seems like a waste of $$ to me.

Cheers!

 

About two quarts of DOT4, and a friend. Don't like to mix brake fluid. Keep pumping and until all four corners come clean and then some. I do have one of those little $10 "helpers", a small bottle with plastic hose that attaches by magnet to the truck, catching what you pump out. But old school should do just fine. While at it, inspect brake lines that move for any swelling.

 

This one....

Motive Products 0100 Brake Power Bleeders and Accessories

I made one like this using an old garden sprayer, tubing, and an old MC cap. Works great on the Landy and BMW's (same size cap).


Also this....

Mityvac 7400 Multi Use Fluid Evacuator 7.3 Liter Capacity

Although this is made for doing oil and trans oil changes, I have used on various cars for bleeding brakes with some success. It is important to keep a solid seal on the bleeder end.

I have sometimes used BOTH at the same time on stubborn systems.

I also use it to change oil AND to bleed the steering system on my boat.

 

This...

I have one along with the catch bottles. I use it on all of my cars and it makes the process a breeze. In fact, I used it on my Disco and it addressed the spongy peddle feel you are describing.

 

1st choice - Motive Power
2nd choice - Home made version

Remember, the left rear caliper is the one furthest from the master cylinder.

 

LEFT rear? I thought it was the passenger(right) rear?

 

Look at the plumbing, you'll see what I mean.

 

Thanks fellas. I like the Motive since it might work on my wife's Saab when it comes time to flush it, too.

 

And I did bleed in the prescribed order (LR, RR, RF, LF), which helped a little. I think the fluid in the system is old, the mixture of old + new is not ideal, and/or the rubber lines are ready to be replaced.

My rough plan now is to buy the bleeder, and 4 SS extended lines; then do the full flush. I did a 2" lift so the extended lines shouldn't hurt.

 

Please let us know how you do. I have the same symtoms. I did 1 complete flush already. It improved things, but it is far from perfect. I have not replaced the rubber brake lines, but I suspect that I have a slow leak on the MC.