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Busted Brake Line

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  #1  
Old 10-23-2011 | 08:01 PM
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Default Busted Brake Line

I had to make a quick trip (30mi) tonight and noticed my brakes were very squishy. Intially I thought ok time to do a fluid flush or bleed em or something similar, but when i got home I took a look under the truck, and then was a puddle of fluid well i hop in push the brakes and the puddle got bigger. It is on the drivers front side, and seems to be coming from the rubber line wrapped with that metal coil. Like it balloned then popped while driving.

I got a couple of questions.

Seems to be an easy fix right?

Should I go ahead and redo all the brake lines? (metal and rubber?)

And it will it take my entire $100 paycheck this week?

Brakes seem to be my issue, Ive had 2 sets of rotors warp, a master cylinder go bad, and the abs light was on so I pulled the fuse
 
  #2  
Old 10-23-2011 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bradical
I had to make a quick trip (30mi) tonight and noticed my brakes were very squishy. Intially I thought ok time to do a fluid flush or bleed em or something similar, but when i got home I took a look under the truck, and then was a puddle of fluid well i hop in push the brakes and the puddle got bigger. It is on the drivers front side, and seems to be coming from the rubber line wrapped with that metal coil. Like it balloned then popped while driving.

I got a couple of questions.

Seems to be an easy fix right?

Should I go ahead and redo all the brake lines? (metal and rubber?)

And it will it take my entire $100 paycheck this week?

Brakes seem to be my issue, Ive had 2 sets of rotors warp, a master cylinder go bad, and the abs light was on so I pulled the fuse
Replacing those lines is pretty easy. If you EVER plan on lifting your truck just get the SS extended ones now. They probably cost the same as those rubber ones anyways.
 
  #3  
Old 10-23-2011 | 08:38 PM
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Easy yes,
all - probably, since they will all go bad about the same time (rubber), metal takes longer to corrode, that is held in check by regular flush of system (couple of quarts),

don't matter how big your check is, something has gone wrong that will take a bite out of it (ask Mike Vick); or you are lucky if she-who-must-be-obeyed lets you have that much allowance.

Could be there are just a lot of hills between you and Gallatin...

Bet your CB handle is "Lucky"..... and you have an email address on universityoftennesseehomeofthevolunteersalumniasso ciationincorporated.org
 
  #4  
Old 10-23-2011 | 08:46 PM
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Alright, and best place to pick up the SS extended brake lines?

And SB and the email address will hopefull be on massachuttesinstituteoftechnolgyhomeoftheoverlyric hsmartstudentsofwhichIdonotfitinwithalumniassocita ionlimited.edu
in a few years
 
  #5  
Old 10-23-2011 | 09:15 PM
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And your intended major?
 
  #6  
Old 10-23-2011 | 09:17 PM
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Mechanical Engineering, if I dont make MIT my plan B's are Texas A&M, Vandy, VA tech, Auburn, and yes UT Knoxville
 
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Old 10-23-2011 | 09:20 PM
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You are probably looking close too $100 anywhere you get them but check around.
 
  #8  
Old 10-24-2011 | 12:08 AM
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2011 | 08:17 AM
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None of the local stores will carry those will they?
 
  #10  
Old 10-24-2011 | 09:09 AM
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None absolutely none when it comes to an older Land Rover Discovery, forget local stores for your parts.

What you need to learn are the limited but very good sources of Land Rover specialist on the web for best results.

Here's what I have learned since buying and maintaining my 97 DI.

Rovers North: They deal only in Rover Parts, both OE LR and their own line ProLine. They have the best exploded views of the systems on your specific Rover, they stock all the correct parts they show. Excellent Shipping, Customer Service, free correct answers regarding your specific model. They all drive Rovers. All their stuff fits. Fair prices. Good place to start.

RovahFarms: Smaller, but good stuff, correct stuff, a little less expensive on most stuff. Trevor is the owner, uses his Series Rover on his farm, thus the name. Not as full an on hand inventory of everything, but still a very good source at good prices.

Atlantic British: Another large speciality dealer. Warehouses on each coast for fast shipping, but not the brightest bulbs in the box (personal opinion based upon personal experience). Still worth looking at for their specials, but their prices and customer service can be beat. Slow to respond and not always on target.

There are more that sell most Rover parts that I have not dealt with yet.

Another possible avenue is dismantlers selling used items. The two I have dealt with are Will Tillery (Roverguy.com) and Paul Grant. They are both shown in links on various signatures on here. Paul has made several great inputs to threads on here.

Best to call them and talk to them in person. Great deals on good used items, shipped quickly.

I would forget the rubber lines and go with the SS as they do not expand in diameter with pressure applied like the rubber ones do, so you get improved brake response.

One more comment I will make. If you are warping new rotors, it ain't the rotors fault my friend. Sounds like you are dealing with just the effect and not finding and correcting the causes of the problem.

I would be looking into new calipers if I were you.
 

Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 10-26-2011 at 08:07 PM.


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