I cant seam to get the sloshing to go away, i tried filling the radiator while up hill n letting it run didnt work, im not losing coolant but i will over heat in traffic or while idling with ac on. I read you can bypass the heater core and since its summer im not going to need heat id figured id give it try. I read its best to connect the heater core hoses back together to keep it in a loop instead of open ended. Is it better to make the loop at the the Dash or the engine? here is where i plan on making the loop, is this a good spot?

 

Do it like this, there is some flow thru the heater core circuit, so it should not be blocked off 100%.

However, the sloshing is not the heater core, but air or exhaust gas in the coolant. If can't purge by fast idle with battery side of truck elevated, and that radiator plug removed.... then you could have head gasket issues. There is a $50 ish chemical test that will detect products of combustion in the coolant, changes color. Once you have that, time for HG.

Bypassing heater core removes the built in choir for the Church of the Painful Truth - just because you don't here the bubbles with core disconnect does not mean you don't have problems. Using an OBDII scanner to read coolant temp is a first step.

 

okay so when i tried to bleed it i had the the overflow res cap off just ran it up hill for about 12 mins with the radiator cap off. having my 8yr old trying to hold it at about 1500 rpms but i hopped in took it for a stop and ride with ac on didnt hear the bubbles as much, i could still hear faint bubbling but not the sloushing around like before, maybe im getting somewhere. It didnt over heat either it stayed perfectly a touch below 1/2. just at the water marks on a 96 disco temp gauge. Gonna bleed it a bit more n just work the idle by hand

also this tester is that a one and done or like a shop tool? my girls uncle works at a Pep boys hes just on vacation right now, and if its not a one n done i prolly wouldnt have to pay for the test

 

I remove the overflow cap AND plug in top of the radiator, then drive the pass front wheel onto a automotive ramp or onto a curb just that wheellet it run so you see real good flow in the little plug in the radiator, I then reinstall the plug in rad. while idle is high and finaly install coolant bottle cap

headgaskets

 

i hoping its not head gaskets, actually praying..it sat since last spring when the kid graduated n didnt get a job daddy took his LR back. i gotta get the leaky calipers fixed too, i have the abs disconnected to keep the abs module from failing, my buddy is a hydrolic mech at AMTRACK and he took my truck to work and found my left rear caliper was leaking. i think i seen the caliper for $150, can you get just the seals? he said grab seals. as far the HG i know the O.L's uncle wont do it so basically my only alternative is to DIY it. I am pretty mechanical i run nitro powerd/two stroke R C cars/truck 1/8 to 1/5 scale, pretty hard core stuff ( ) but how involed is this HG change? is it just pulling the valve covers, gaskets and heads n gaskets? i researched the rep kit from British atlantic and the kit comes with the valve gaskets, composite HG and a bunch of intake seals.. Stretch bolts sold seperately.

 

Its not awful. Intake mani off, alternator, PS pump, exhuast mani, valve covers, etc...its an old school push rod V8 design. SavannahBuzz is doing it right now and is doing a great job of documenting it on his thread.

 

heads have to be checked by a machine shop, head bolts have to be replaced, it is a lot more in depth then a gas r/c truck, things have to be torqued and retorqued the right way or it will all be for nothing

find a u pull it yARD FOR CALIPERS MUCH CHEAPER

 

here's a set of pages on the HG swap, for a D2, which is very similar.

I paid $118 for Reinz gasket kit, plus more for new bolts. You can get HG kit as low as $89 from Rovah Farm if you can get Trevor to pickup the phone. I made 5 calls, nothing but voice mail, figured he was on vaction, and bought elsewhere.

Machine shop near me did the valve job and skim heads for $250, two day turn around. They called today with the good news, ready for pickup, no cracks, etc.

 

well its deffinitly a HG. took a ride to the salvage yards today for a headlight,marker n the piece under it, bull bar, and pass side step and blew the main fat hose off wrecking the firewall on the underside of the hood.

 

do you mean the hood insulation? wow you must have got real hot or bad hose or both

mine now runs 188-195 even sitting with the a/c on this is after stat, over flow cap, hoses, rod radiator, and finally head gaskets that were leaking at ends, heads ended up being warped