Cannot remove drive shaft
What tools are you using??? All things considered, that hardware looks "new".
A good 9/16" box wrench and a socket with a decent ratchet will get it. Heat will help, but not always needed. This tool can help... Drive Shaft Socket Wrench Tool - Land Rover Drive Shaft Tools but in 20 years I've never had to use one to remove a prop shaft.
Seriously, what tools are you using?
A good 9/16" box wrench and a socket with a decent ratchet will get it. Heat will help, but not always needed. This tool can help... Drive Shaft Socket Wrench Tool - Land Rover Drive Shaft Tools but in 20 years I've never had to use one to remove a prop shaft.
Seriously, what tools are you using?
Yup, that's a rear driveshaft all right. Now, go to the hardware store and buy the torch I have pictured below. While you're there see if you can buy a 6 point boxed end wrench. With those two items you should be equipped to remove any of these Land Rover driveshafts, front or rear.
As I mentioned in my original post, take the torch to the nuts on the back end of the driveshaft, the end that connects to the differential (I always find it easiest to begin at the diff end of the driveshaft regardless of front or rear). Heat that nut until it damn near glows orange and all the nylon in the nylock nut has melted. Next, take that six point box end wrench and put it on the head of the bolt. Get another 14mm or 9/16th open end wrench and attach it to the nut. You should be able to turn the bolt and loosen the nut.
Now, if you don't have the truck in the air you'll need to either roll the truck forward or back to access all the nuts and bolts at the back end of the driveshaft.
Once the back end is free from the diff, you can move the driveshaft (left, right, up or down) to give you better access to the four nuts on the flange on the rear output assembly of the transfer case. Use the torch again to make life easy. Melt those nylocks, they're cheap enough that you can buy spares. Then use the 6 point boxed end wrench and you'll be done in no time.
As I mentioned in my original post, take the torch to the nuts on the back end of the driveshaft, the end that connects to the differential (I always find it easiest to begin at the diff end of the driveshaft regardless of front or rear). Heat that nut until it damn near glows orange and all the nylon in the nylock nut has melted. Next, take that six point box end wrench and put it on the head of the bolt. Get another 14mm or 9/16th open end wrench and attach it to the nut. You should be able to turn the bolt and loosen the nut.
Now, if you don't have the truck in the air you'll need to either roll the truck forward or back to access all the nuts and bolts at the back end of the driveshaft.
Once the back end is free from the diff, you can move the driveshaft (left, right, up or down) to give you better access to the four nuts on the flange on the rear output assembly of the transfer case. Use the torch again to make life easy. Melt those nylocks, they're cheap enough that you can buy spares. Then use the 6 point boxed end wrench and you'll be done in no time.
I've got one of those tools. I've never NEEDED it, but it's nice to have. I didn't pay that price for it. I'm pretty sure I bought it here for $15 or $20 shipped, but I don't recall for sure.
I have the special tool. It works well on some, not so much on others. The only time i use it is when it's attached to my impact gun. Otherwise its so long I find it doesn't transfer the torque well by hand.
My tried and true/works every time method is two 6 point combination wrenches and a breaker bar to slide over the end of one. I always hold the bolt side and turn the nut side. Never rounded a nut this way.
The special tool is good for removing the diff bolts, too.
My tried and true/works every time method is two 6 point combination wrenches and a breaker bar to slide over the end of one. I always hold the bolt side and turn the nut side. Never rounded a nut this way.
The special tool is good for removing the diff bolts, too.
I'm sorry but lmao. A 9/16 socket or box wrench and a pipe of some sort to use as a breaker bar, leverage bar would have done the trick. My standard hand tools and two big guys couldn't get them off but a 2.5 foot section of 1.5 inch steel conduit made easy work of them. No heat, no sweat.
I'm sorry but lmao. A 9/16 socket or box wrench and a pipe of some sort to use as a breaker bar, leverage bar would have done the trick. My standard hand tools and two big guys couldn't get them off but a 2.5 foot section of 1.5 inch steel conduit made easy work of them. No heat, no sweat.



