Cannot remove drive shaft
Trying to remove the driveshaft to continue my way to removing the transfer case.
So 2 years ago I was on a road trip and fried my Transfer case on my 1998 Disco I. Initially I thought it was the tranny but later discovered it was in fact the Tcase. Why...? Well...what I found out this summer after getting a chance to work on the truck it didn't have any gear oil -.- Anyways now I'm trying to replace the tcase to get my baby back on the road but I'm stuck at the drive shaft...I can't get a single bolt off and I've used wd40, PB Blaster, all kinds of loosening agents, etc. I'm at the point where I wanna cut them off to keep going but I think that'd be bad. Any suggestions? Poor to moderate tool selection...please help!
So 2 years ago I was on a road trip and fried my Transfer case on my 1998 Disco I. Initially I thought it was the tranny but later discovered it was in fact the Tcase. Why...? Well...what I found out this summer after getting a chance to work on the truck it didn't have any gear oil -.- Anyways now I'm trying to replace the tcase to get my baby back on the road but I'm stuck at the drive shaft...I can't get a single bolt off and I've used wd40, PB Blaster, all kinds of loosening agents, etc. I'm at the point where I wanna cut them off to keep going but I think that'd be bad. Any suggestions? Poor to moderate tool selection...please help!
I dont recall a 98 D1 having a rotoflex.
Every D1 made had a Rotoflex installed.... Only time you'll not see one is if an owner replaced it with the u-joint kit. 6 pt sockets and a breaker bar take care of most every tough nut on a Rover. Pretty sure the nuts/bolts are one time use because of crimp nuts. Hardware and at least grade 5, 8 is better. Best of luck.
If you're having trouble removing the nuts and bolts try using a small propane or mapp gas torch. Heat the nut up and you'll see the plastic in the nylock melt. 30 seconds to a minute and the nut should come off easily. Also, if you're using wrenches, use a six point box end on the bolt head and an open wrench on the nut (since you can't get it all the way around the nut with a box end).
BTW, I always find it easier starting at the diff end of the driveshaft whether we're talking about the front or rear driveshaft.
If you're removing the rear driveshaft you should have no trouble if you have access to an impact wrench, either air or electric.
BTW, I always find it easier starting at the diff end of the driveshaft whether we're talking about the front or rear driveshaft.
If you're removing the rear driveshaft you should have no trouble if you have access to an impact wrench, either air or electric.


