cant engage diff lock
#22
Item 39, the diff lock switch, was bad on mine also. The plunger on it was bad. This switch turns on the dash light when the CDL is locked. It affects the light only, but if it is bad, you do not get the dash light on when the CDL is locked. The switch itself does not and will not prevent the CDL from engaging.
#23
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
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You ignorant ****, you don't deserve a LR.......just joking of course. I hope you are over your guilt about not fixing the Diff Lock yet.
I watched that video, pretty much a wasted ten minutes but at least it shows what not to do pretty good.
1. Do not attempt to fix the diff lock linkages with the center console still in the vehicle, it will just be in your way.
2. Don't destroy that rubber boot. After you remove the console you can see the factory rivets, drill them out and sit that rubber boot aside if it is in good condition, no need to destroy it. You can reinstall with a pop rivet gun.
3. It does show the selector mechanism. His linkage is pretty bad.
This video does show the actual internals that physically engage and disengage, it is a large yoke mechanism, also well documented in the RAVE. I did not have to tear into the internals of the T/C.
YouTube - LT230 Difflock Mechanism
A short clip showing how a the difflock engaging mechanism works inside the Land Rover LT230 transfer box. The spring is there to provide constant force to allow the difflock lever to be engaged when the splines don't line up or disengaged when there is windup across the difflock. This explains why there is often a delay in the difflock light on the dash going on or off.
The pressed clips at either side of the spring can weaken and splay out over time and slip over the slot machined in the shaft giving no difflock action.
This is one piece of info I was not aware of but it does explain the reason there is a delay between the engagement and the light activation.
I was one of the ones who did cut the side of the tunnel wall in the passengers floorboard. This was to gain access to the CDL Switch. As this video shows and explains, the engagement is mechanical (gears and a yoke locking the mechanisms together). Engagement is totally mechanical, not electrical like some part time 4wd or Automatic or pushbutton locking systems.
The switch that someelse asked about is only there to turn on the dash light when the system is engaged and turn the light off when the system is disengaged. So A bad switch will only affect the dash light indicator, it cannot possibly prevent engagement.
Like the first video showed, the linkage is poor to say the least. It is flimsy and is exposed to the nasty environment found underneath your Rover. Mud, road spray, all that collects on and impedes smooth operation of a poorly designed and constructed shift linkage.
For any of you who have not looked at my linked picture albums, there are lots and lots of pictures of the total teardown of the linkage.
Hope this helped some of you.
I watched that video, pretty much a wasted ten minutes but at least it shows what not to do pretty good.
1. Do not attempt to fix the diff lock linkages with the center console still in the vehicle, it will just be in your way.
2. Don't destroy that rubber boot. After you remove the console you can see the factory rivets, drill them out and sit that rubber boot aside if it is in good condition, no need to destroy it. You can reinstall with a pop rivet gun.
3. It does show the selector mechanism. His linkage is pretty bad.
This video does show the actual internals that physically engage and disengage, it is a large yoke mechanism, also well documented in the RAVE. I did not have to tear into the internals of the T/C.
YouTube - LT230 Difflock Mechanism
A short clip showing how a the difflock engaging mechanism works inside the Land Rover LT230 transfer box. The spring is there to provide constant force to allow the difflock lever to be engaged when the splines don't line up or disengaged when there is windup across the difflock. This explains why there is often a delay in the difflock light on the dash going on or off.
The pressed clips at either side of the spring can weaken and splay out over time and slip over the slot machined in the shaft giving no difflock action.
This is one piece of info I was not aware of but it does explain the reason there is a delay between the engagement and the light activation.
I was one of the ones who did cut the side of the tunnel wall in the passengers floorboard. This was to gain access to the CDL Switch. As this video shows and explains, the engagement is mechanical (gears and a yoke locking the mechanisms together). Engagement is totally mechanical, not electrical like some part time 4wd or Automatic or pushbutton locking systems.
The switch that someelse asked about is only there to turn on the dash light when the system is engaged and turn the light off when the system is disengaged. So A bad switch will only affect the dash light indicator, it cannot possibly prevent engagement.
Like the first video showed, the linkage is poor to say the least. It is flimsy and is exposed to the nasty environment found underneath your Rover. Mud, road spray, all that collects on and impedes smooth operation of a poorly designed and constructed shift linkage.
For any of you who have not looked at my linked picture albums, there are lots and lots of pictures of the total teardown of the linkage.
Hope this helped some of you.
#24
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
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Some people say you have to use the CDL often to keep it working smooth. After the total teardown and rebuild of mine and the liberal use of Lucas Red Tractor grease in the top cup and thorough lubrication, mine still shifts very smoothly even though it has been more than two years since I was in there. I shifted it into diff lock recently for the snowy roads and it worked just fine after not having used CDL for several months.
#25
You ignorant ****, you don't deserve a LR.......just joking of course. I hope you are over your guilt about not fixing the Diff Lock yet.
I watched that video, pretty much a wasted ten minutes but at least it shows what not to do pretty good.
1. Do not attempt to fix the diff lock linkages with the center console still in the vehicle, it will just be in your way.
2. Don't destroy that rubber boot. After you remove the console you can see the factory rivets, drill them out and sit that rubber boot aside if it is in good condition, no need to destroy it. You can reinstall with a pop rivet gun.
3. It does show the selector mechanism. His linkage is pretty bad.
This video does show the actual internals that physically engage and disengage, it is a large yoke mechanism, also well documented in the RAVE. I did not have to tear into the internals of the T/C.
YouTube - LT230 Difflock Mechanism
A short clip showing how a the difflock engaging mechanism works inside the Land Rover LT230 transfer box. The spring is there to provide constant force to allow the difflock lever to be engaged when the splines don't line up or disengaged when there is windup across the difflock. This explains why there is often a delay in the difflock light on the dash going on or off.
The pressed clips at either side of the spring can weaken and splay out over time and slip over the slot machined in the shaft giving no difflock action.
This is one piece of info I was not aware of but it does explain the reason there is a delay between the engagement and the light activation.
I was one of the ones who did cut the side of the tunnel wall in the passengers floorboard. This was to gain access to the CDL Switch. As this video shows and explains, the engagement is mechanical (gears and a yoke locking the mechanisms together). Engagement is totally mechanical, not electrical like some part time 4wd or Automatic or pushbutton locking systems.
The switch that someelse asked about is only there to turn on the dash light when the system is engaged and turn the light off when the system is disengaged. So A bad switch will only affect the dash light indicator, it cannot possibly prevent engagement.
Like the first video showed, the linkage is poor to say the least. It is flimsy and is exposed to the nasty environment found underneath your Rover. Mud, road spray, all that collects on and impedes smooth operation of a poorly designed and constructed shift linkage.
For any of you who have not looked at my linked picture albums, there are lots and lots of pictures of the total teardown of the linkage.
Hope this helped some of you.
I watched that video, pretty much a wasted ten minutes but at least it shows what not to do pretty good.
1. Do not attempt to fix the diff lock linkages with the center console still in the vehicle, it will just be in your way.
2. Don't destroy that rubber boot. After you remove the console you can see the factory rivets, drill them out and sit that rubber boot aside if it is in good condition, no need to destroy it. You can reinstall with a pop rivet gun.
3. It does show the selector mechanism. His linkage is pretty bad.
This video does show the actual internals that physically engage and disengage, it is a large yoke mechanism, also well documented in the RAVE. I did not have to tear into the internals of the T/C.
YouTube - LT230 Difflock Mechanism
A short clip showing how a the difflock engaging mechanism works inside the Land Rover LT230 transfer box. The spring is there to provide constant force to allow the difflock lever to be engaged when the splines don't line up or disengaged when there is windup across the difflock. This explains why there is often a delay in the difflock light on the dash going on or off.
The pressed clips at either side of the spring can weaken and splay out over time and slip over the slot machined in the shaft giving no difflock action.
This is one piece of info I was not aware of but it does explain the reason there is a delay between the engagement and the light activation.
I was one of the ones who did cut the side of the tunnel wall in the passengers floorboard. This was to gain access to the CDL Switch. As this video shows and explains, the engagement is mechanical (gears and a yoke locking the mechanisms together). Engagement is totally mechanical, not electrical like some part time 4wd or Automatic or pushbutton locking systems.
The switch that someelse asked about is only there to turn on the dash light when the system is engaged and turn the light off when the system is disengaged. So A bad switch will only affect the dash light indicator, it cannot possibly prevent engagement.
Like the first video showed, the linkage is poor to say the least. It is flimsy and is exposed to the nasty environment found underneath your Rover. Mud, road spray, all that collects on and impedes smooth operation of a poorly designed and constructed shift linkage.
For any of you who have not looked at my linked picture albums, there are lots and lots of pictures of the total teardown of the linkage.
Hope this helped some of you.
That is a big help, I with the videos and your pictures I finally have an idea of what I'm dealing with. like i said if I cut, I will make like a cover plate...sealed with rtv and rivets.....
#26
When you are away at work, does your Rover just sit there unused or is someone there that can occasionally start it up and keep things going on it?
Some people say you have to use the CDL often to keep it working smooth. After the total teardown and rebuild of mine and the liberal use of Lucas Red Tractor grease in the top cup and thorough lubrication, mine still shifts very smoothly even though it has been more than two years since I was in there. I shifted it into diff lock recently for the snowy roads and it worked just fine after not having used CDL for several months.
Some people say you have to use the CDL often to keep it working smooth. After the total teardown and rebuild of mine and the liberal use of Lucas Red Tractor grease in the top cup and thorough lubrication, mine still shifts very smoothly even though it has been more than two years since I was in there. I shifted it into diff lock recently for the snowy roads and it worked just fine after not having used CDL for several months.
I guess that the cdl in my disco probably been engaged only a handfull of times....and probably not even in the last 10 plus years....so a complete rebuild is in order.
My wife travels back and forth from our house in Ontario to Calgary...the longest its been parked is 3 months straight...twice. but those times its been on jackstands and covered with a car cover plus a big tarp....
I was back for 10 days....and the rover never missed a beat, it was a good 10 days....I missed my rover. I also did some very light off roading near by....I cant wait to go back and get it all fixed and set-up. I also cant wait to experiance the difference of the CDL, all my got jeeps, suzukis, nissans and toyotas....it will be fun to show them how compitent the disco is.
Here is a question...I was on AB looking at snorkels, in the discription it said that with the snorkel installed it still doesnt allow the rover to go past hub deep water in North American LR's....what is different in ours that makes them say that? I'm pretty sure i've seen NA LR's in deep water on youtube. Do they make that claim so that there isnt any lawsuits from people messing up the rovers in deep water?
Last edited by instg8r; 03-30-2011 at 06:06 PM.
#27
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ketchikan, Alaska, USA
Posts: 2,073
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Here is a question...I was on AB looking at snorkels, in the discription it said that with the snorkel installed it still doesnt allow the rover to go past hub deep water in North American LR's....what is different in ours that makes them say that? I'm pretty sure i've seen NA LR's in deep water on youtube. Do they make that claim so that there isnt any lawsuits from people messing up the rovers in deep water?
#29
Dude...bolting some plastic tubing to your fender does not a fording vehicle make. Those "snorkels' are only to keep the intake above all the road trash you stir up as you cruise across the Serengeti plains, white scarf flapping in the breeze. Its to keep DUST out of your engine, not water. There are a whole bunch of other things you have to worry about besides water in the intake if you submerge past the hubs. Make sure you look into it before you attempt any submarineresque behavior.
#30
My truck wont be going anywhere for the next bit because of things that still need to bo done before offroading period. I will look into it when the time comes. And I will look into it becuase the trails up here and further north tend to be quite wet. I was just more curious about the difference between the North American and the rest of the world LR's as per the AB website