Can't press my accelerator down all the way!
#31
#32
I have found the pressure valve - no problems there. The big problem now is no spark.
I walked through the tests in the manual under "Lucas Constant Energy Ignition System - V8i" Everything tests fine until Test 4...then it says 2 check the ohms @ the pickup terminals in the body of the distributor. Reading should be between 2K and 5K. With my ohm meter connected and set in the 20,000 range - I get a reading of 3.17 - adjusting for the decimal (I can't use the 2K setting because it should read higher than that) I believe this is 3,170 ohms which is within the range.
The manual then says "If ohmmeter reading is correct, check all connections between pick up and amplifier, if satisfactory, fit new amplifier. If engine still does not start, carry out test 5." I don't have a new "amplifier" to put on - so I looked at Test 5 - and it is testing the lead from the ignition coil to the distributor for spark - there is no spark there. The logical conclusion (I think) is the ignition coil went out. Does this seem reasonable to you guys (that are way more experienced than I)? Makes sense to me, but I'm no expert.
Is there anything else I can check - fuse for the ignition coil maybe - that would be preventing the coil from sending spark to the distributor?
Also -one last question - if it was the starter would the engine even turn over?
Thanks again for all your help.
I walked through the tests in the manual under "Lucas Constant Energy Ignition System - V8i" Everything tests fine until Test 4...then it says 2 check the ohms @ the pickup terminals in the body of the distributor. Reading should be between 2K and 5K. With my ohm meter connected and set in the 20,000 range - I get a reading of 3.17 - adjusting for the decimal (I can't use the 2K setting because it should read higher than that) I believe this is 3,170 ohms which is within the range.
The manual then says "If ohmmeter reading is correct, check all connections between pick up and amplifier, if satisfactory, fit new amplifier. If engine still does not start, carry out test 5." I don't have a new "amplifier" to put on - so I looked at Test 5 - and it is testing the lead from the ignition coil to the distributor for spark - there is no spark there. The logical conclusion (I think) is the ignition coil went out. Does this seem reasonable to you guys (that are way more experienced than I)? Makes sense to me, but I'm no expert.
Is there anything else I can check - fuse for the ignition coil maybe - that would be preventing the coil from sending spark to the distributor?
Also -one last question - if it was the starter would the engine even turn over?
Thanks again for all your help.
#33
Amplifiers are famous for failing.... and would prevent spark from being produced in step 5. And the starter is the only thing that turns the engine until the fuel ignites.
Satellite fuse panel 1 under dash - fuse 3 runs coils. There are several fuses associated with cranking and charging - you'll see them in the RAVE electrical troubleshooting guide.
Satellite fuse panel 1 under dash - fuse 3 runs coils. There are several fuses associated with cranking and charging - you'll see them in the RAVE electrical troubleshooting guide.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 06-03-2012 at 06:26 PM.
#34
Sounds like the ignition module is toast.
I dont know if you can get one locally or not.
Now for me to be a jerk, you had problems 6 months ago, we tried to help you, you disappeared.
Now you need the truck running and you start your new job in the morning?
Should have been working on this 6 months ago.
I dont know if you can get one locally or not.
Now for me to be a jerk, you had problems 6 months ago, we tried to help you, you disappeared.
Now you need the truck running and you start your new job in the morning?
Should have been working on this 6 months ago.
#35
Sounds like the ignition module is toast.
I dont know if you can get one locally or not.
Now for me to be a jerk, you had problems 6 months ago, we tried to help you, you disappeared.
Now you need the truck running and you start your new job in the morning?
Should have been working on this 6 months ago.
I dont know if you can get one locally or not.
Now for me to be a jerk, you had problems 6 months ago, we tried to help you, you disappeared.
Now you need the truck running and you start your new job in the morning?
Should have been working on this 6 months ago.
The biggest reason for my procrastination was my budget the fact that I don't drive the vehicle very much, and I was a bit intimidated by the suggestions you guys were making, as I have no experience with Rovers, so I put it off. Lesson learned.
Thanks for your help...it is appreciated.
#36
Besides price, what is the difference in this one:
Land Rover Ingnition Amplifier Module (Same Fit As Genuine Part # STC1184) | Land Rover Engine Parts
and this one:
RV-STC1184 - Amplifier 3-Pin RVRTC5089*
I am also planning on hitting my local junk yard before I purchase one online. Might get lucky.
Land Rover Ingnition Amplifier Module (Same Fit As Genuine Part # STC1184) | Land Rover Engine Parts
and this one:
RV-STC1184 - Amplifier 3-Pin RVRTC5089*
I am also planning on hitting my local junk yard before I purchase one online. Might get lucky.
#37
Nothing that I can tell.
Getting one local, even used would get you back on the road.
If you can get a used one to get you going then buy a new one, install the new one and save the used one to keep as a spare as these are a common fail item.
They get heat soaked and as we all know electrical components do not like heat.
There is actually a relocation kit to put it on the fire wall out of the heat.
I have found that when I am not in a hurry that is the best time to tackle things I know little about, that leaves time for mistakes and extra research and parts ordering.
Getting one local, even used would get you back on the road.
If you can get a used one to get you going then buy a new one, install the new one and save the used one to keep as a spare as these are a common fail item.
They get heat soaked and as we all know electrical components do not like heat.
There is actually a relocation kit to put it on the fire wall out of the heat.
I have found that when I am not in a hurry that is the best time to tackle things I know little about, that leaves time for mistakes and extra research and parts ordering.
#38
Nothing that I can tell.
Getting one local, even used would get you back on the road.
If you can get a used one to get you going then buy a new one, install the new one and save the used one to keep as a spare as these are a common fail item.
They get heat soaked and as we all know electrical components do not like heat.
There is actually a relocation kit to put it on the fire wall out of the heat.
I have found that when I am not in a hurry that is the best time to tackle things I know little about, that leaves time for mistakes and extra research and parts ordering.
Getting one local, even used would get you back on the road.
If you can get a used one to get you going then buy a new one, install the new one and save the used one to keep as a spare as these are a common fail item.
They get heat soaked and as we all know electrical components do not like heat.
There is actually a relocation kit to put it on the fire wall out of the heat.
I have found that when I am not in a hurry that is the best time to tackle things I know little about, that leaves time for mistakes and extra research and parts ordering.
#40