Replaced the slave cylinder, still doesn't work. Ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit. I think the master cylinder isn't pulling in brake fluid. So as long as I didn't do anything to the system, it worked. Now that I needed to bleed it, it won't pull in fluid and doesn't move the slave cylinder.

Derek V

 

hi it would suspect we have the same problem my master now if depressed quickly feels OK but slowly just goes to the floor with little pressure so my conclusion is master cylinder seals passing as the return is also slow obviously do to the returning slave fluid is insufficient to push the master back with the passing seals . all of this started a week or so after a clutch fitted by a reputable clutch specialist i did take the master of and poring out the fluid a black oil in the near clear fluid that separates in a jar me thinks incompatible modern sinthetic fluide as the master is original

 

Update:

New slave cylinder. New master cylinder. Line is good and system is bled. Clutch does not work. I suspect the thrust bearing had pushed the plate in and the plate is stuck in or the fork has come off the the thrust bearing. I am going to take the transmission back off today to investigate. I don't know what could have caused this. I am not ruling out a mistake putting everything back together, this is my first clutch replacement. I didn't have a clutch alignment tool, but managed to get the transmission back it, so it HAS to be aligned, right? Any ideas?

Derek V

 

Hey, You can get an alignment tool for about 8.00 Summitt has them. I was told never just eyeball them. I also said earlier, the hoses could be clogged. At least check this. If they are original to car, I'm sure they need replaced.

 

Have you thought about maybe your release lever is not in the right spot?
(page 388 in the Rave D1 workshop manual)

 

Also, did the clutch fall easily to the floor, or did if have pressure the first time you pushed down and then no pressure after that?

 

So I replaced both the master and slave cylinder and cleaned and checked the hydraulic line. pressure bled the system. I know the hydraulic system is ok. What I found is that the fork lever has been pushed in and didn't return. The clutch is engaged, the truck won't roll in gear. I suspect the thrust bearing slipped off the fork. I must have made a mistake during re-assembly. I think I must not have put that wire bracket that attaches the thrust bearing to the fork. I am going to drop the transmission again tomorrow and find out for sure.

Derek

 

Update:

Dropped the transmission again. I discovered that I had failed to reinstall a nylon cap over the fork fulcrum. This small piece makes all the difference. Their is resistance immediately when pressing the clutch pedal now. New problem is that it doesn't feel like the clutch is actually disengaging when pressing the clutch pedal. I wonder if the clutch isn't lined up on the splines correctly. Does the new clutch have to be broken in?

Thanks,

Derek V

 

Great to hear you found the one problem. The clutch does not need to be broken in. You would not have been able to fully seat/install the transmission if the splines of the input didn't engage the clutch disc.

Is the "feel" being performed with the engine on or off? If you are able, have you tried to start the engine with the transmission in gear and the clutch pedal pushed in? If she tries to leap forward, clutch isn't disengaging. If she starts right up and doesn't try to drive off, you're good.

 

I started the engine, but the vehicle is on jack stands with the drive shafts still removed/disconnected. It gets progressing more difficult to put the transmission into each higher gear. I can see the output from the transfer case going to the front axle and it seems to be in gear and not just spinning from the drag of the clutch. I can't imagine what could be keeping the driven plate from being moved by the thrust bearing.

Derek V