Code P0430
#1
Code P0430
Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2).
And Code P0430PD
'96 Disco 1 with approx 160,000 miles. All 4 O2 sensors replaced around 120K. Does the p0430 always mean bad cats? Any other reasons for this code?
Any idea on the second code with the 'PD' added?
What is the cheapest way to get these fixed? I'm assuming a proline replacement from Atlantic British? Can I turn the code off and keep driving on them? Can I swap the cats and keep the y-pipe? Just looking for some insights from someone else who has probably already solved this one.
-Darin
And Code P0430PD
'96 Disco 1 with approx 160,000 miles. All 4 O2 sensors replaced around 120K. Does the p0430 always mean bad cats? Any other reasons for this code?
Any idea on the second code with the 'PD' added?
What is the cheapest way to get these fixed? I'm assuming a proline replacement from Atlantic British? Can I turn the code off and keep driving on them? Can I swap the cats and keep the y-pipe? Just looking for some insights from someone else who has probably already solved this one.
-Darin
#3
#4
#6
Aftermarket Cats
Following up on the idea of instead of replacing the y-pipe to keep the y-pipe and replace the catalytic converters with generic aftermarket ones.
This is on a '96 Disco 1.
The passenger side cat is very narrow and offset, i.e. not center to center like many aftermarket cats, making a simple cut and bolt in option difficult. Making it further difficult is the fact that the O2 sensor on the passenger side is very close to the front of the catalytic converter. Because its so close, it would be difficult to cut and simply slide in the aftermarket cat.
My local muffler shop was willing to make up the various pieces to make it work, but claimed 4 or 5 hours of labor it get it all right (perhaps they were shooting high). At that price, the original full y-pipe option seems more reasonable at about $550. Direct bolt on.
If others have used the generics, I'm curious how they solved the problems mentioned above.
This is on a '96 Disco 1.
The passenger side cat is very narrow and offset, i.e. not center to center like many aftermarket cats, making a simple cut and bolt in option difficult. Making it further difficult is the fact that the O2 sensor on the passenger side is very close to the front of the catalytic converter. Because its so close, it would be difficult to cut and simply slide in the aftermarket cat.
My local muffler shop was willing to make up the various pieces to make it work, but claimed 4 or 5 hours of labor it get it all right (perhaps they were shooting high). At that price, the original full y-pipe option seems more reasonable at about $550. Direct bolt on.
If others have used the generics, I'm curious how they solved the problems mentioned above.
#7
#9
One foot in the grave?
Spike,
As you can probably guess from my post, I'm looking for an affordable solution to the y-pipe and cats. My 1996 has over 150,000 miles and I'm just wondering how long she can hold on.
I see you have a lot of miles on your 97. What do you think is the max life of a D1 as a daily driver. Things I currently have broken include, one of the cats, both sunroofs, a short in one of the tail lights, one broken door actuator, and a random overheating problem.
I would like to keep the D1 for another 30K miles. Do you think she can make it? Or, should I take her out back and put her out of her misery? I have a 40 year old boat with twin 327s and a 1980 Corvette that are both in good shape, so I realize you can keep a piece of equipment going, but, is there a drop dead mileage point on the D1s?
What exhaust combo did you go with?
As you can probably guess from my post, I'm looking for an affordable solution to the y-pipe and cats. My 1996 has over 150,000 miles and I'm just wondering how long she can hold on.
I see you have a lot of miles on your 97. What do you think is the max life of a D1 as a daily driver. Things I currently have broken include, one of the cats, both sunroofs, a short in one of the tail lights, one broken door actuator, and a random overheating problem.
I would like to keep the D1 for another 30K miles. Do you think she can make it? Or, should I take her out back and put her out of her misery? I have a 40 year old boat with twin 327s and a 1980 Corvette that are both in good shape, so I realize you can keep a piece of equipment going, but, is there a drop dead mileage point on the D1s?
What exhaust combo did you go with?
#10
I am up to 190k on my 96 and it runs good. Just get the one from AB and it will take ten minutes to put in.
If you want to do it yourself then have someone torch out the rear bolts and install new ones and then when you get home heat up the engine for a while and then take out the nuts so they don't break. if the studs come out then just take off the exhaust manifolds and install new studs. Or install them if you want. Thats what I did, installed new studs and nuts and haven't looked back.
of course I let my muffler fall off and it wiggled the studs loose and caused even more noise after a new exhaust system.
If you want to do it yourself then have someone torch out the rear bolts and install new ones and then when you get home heat up the engine for a while and then take out the nuts so they don't break. if the studs come out then just take off the exhaust manifolds and install new studs. Or install them if you want. Thats what I did, installed new studs and nuts and haven't looked back.
of course I let my muffler fall off and it wiggled the studs loose and caused even more noise after a new exhaust system.