It seems that my disco doesn't want to be put into gear unless she is fully warmed up! She goes into gear, but sometimes DIES once the rpms drop. If I let her warm all the way up, put her in gear, then drive she is fine. ODD... I think my spark plugs and wires would be a good start. They are both over a year old and the wires are 7mm not 8mm. The temps this is happening is between 30 degrees to 0. I do let her warm up for a couple of minutes before I drive, but not the 10 it takes to get the temp gauge warmed up. I also noticed that when I start her she idles up to 1500 rpms and takes a couple of minutes to come back down. This happens regardless of of the temperature. I was thinking the throttle body could be dirty? Thoughts?

 

Throttle body, MAF sensor (clean very carefully when cold, and think about it, new one is $1400), IACV. Vacuum leak. Clogged PCV vent from oil separator on passenger valve cover. Just considringthings that have ahold of the vacuum.

If you have a data reading scanner, look at coolant temp for the ECU, when engine cold. Mine reads -40 F if disconnected. If it read very low, the ECU would idle high to warm up. Not the same sensor as gauge temp, but right next door.

So a free scanner coolant sensor test, carb cleaner on oil separator, and clean MAF & throttle body with correct cleaner, like CRC.

 

Do you think I should bring the MAF inside and let it warm up before I start cleaning? I think it comes off really easily?

 

No, the MAF has a heated wire as part of the sensor, and the risk is hitting that hot element with a cold spray, like a light bulb into ice water. When I saw how much these cost new (Rock Auto, like $1400), I snagged one while on a scavenger hunt at the salvage yard. $25, worth as a spare I might can clean up.

 

Clean your throttle body and idle air control valve.

 

Isn't that located on the backside of the intake manifold? Its held on with 2 bolts I think..

 

My money is on a dirty t/body and IAC first, then a possible tune up with new wires, cap/and rotor, points and plugs. Leave the MAF alone for now and do the above, might also put a can of 44K in the tank and do an induction cleaning to clear out the carbon.
By the way, what octane are you burning?

 

Yes, leave the MAF until all the other widgets have been gone over, no need to disturb it if not needed.

 

Thanks guys,
I will do this. I run 91! Its the highest I can get in Iowa.

 

The rest of us run fine Iowa product as well......