With the rover off and cold, run a hose on the exterior of the radiator (NO HIGH PRESSURE as that may cause damage to the radiator) and clean off the bugs and mud.

 

Took the hose to the external radiator and was surprised by the amount of caked on mud. I repeated the process and was able to catch the water from underneath with a bucket. After draining the bucket the bottom was layered in mud.

Good tip as this should help with the cooling process.

Thanks!

 

Hello Everyone,

Just a quick update. I replaced my thermostat and the overflow continued at 200F according to the UltraGauge.

Got the radiator removed and here what it looks like. Is this toast or can it be repaired? I called around to some local places that do radiator service but they haven't seen this yet.


Thanks!

 

A recore would fix that, if you can find someone to do it.

 

That radiator looks like a real good candidate for a recore.
I've had radiators recored in far worse shape.
Besides it really doesn't matter what condition the center (core) is in... that's the only new part the Rad Shop will be replacing anyway.

And even IF the tanks have damage/cracks they can always be corrected before they are brazed to the core.

 

Thank you gentlemen for the quick response.
I can drop off my radiator tomorrow and I was told I can pick it up in two days.
This is a learning curve for me so I just wanted to have all my ducks in a row when presenting this to the shop that repairs radiators.

Thanks!

 

No worries, you'll be in good shape.

Please don't (you or the shop) get hung up that this is a "Land Rover Radiator"!
There is nothing special about doing a recore on this thing.

Just a headsup (or 2), you have the old O ring in the lower Oil Cooler Port....just remove it before you drop the rad off.

Ask the Rad Shop if they are going to Pressure Test the Oil Cooler.
They will P test the complete Rad, and if it's a quality shop they will also do the Oil Cooler.
It's very simple to do (no special fittings needed), just cap one end and attach a piece of hose with a Schrader valve to introduce the air. It's not uncommon for the nut that holds the Oil Cooler to the Rad Tank to become loose or crack.
And again at this stage it's an easy fix of just brazing the bits back together.

Another thought, check the Fill Plug Threads. If the threads are boogered up the shop can braze in a new fill bung.
And now is also a good time (if you haven't already) replace the plastic plug with a brass ( ERR4686B ).

Lastly, when to get this thing home run some water through it and also some oil through the oil cooler.
Overboard, yep...but that's a simple step to be sure nothing is plugged up. It's crazy but I've seen a Rad come back with sand in it because after the tank was sandblasted they never blew out the cooler.
And you have 2 new O rings ( ESR1594L ) right?

That's all I got

 

Just took the radiator in repair and the owner of the shop said it would be $850 to restore it. I grabbed the radiator and got the hell out of dodge!

 

Good move. Just grab the Nissens at Rock Auto. No need to blow more than $290.

 

Exactly!
Thanks