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Coolant leaking from engine block?!?!

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  #21  
Old 02-06-2012, 02:20 PM
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Broke it off in the block? Or after the cover is removed will you be able to remove it with pliers? Might be fine, just a little extra work. Go slowly and take your time. Better done slow and right than done fast and sloppy. The bolt is easily replaced.
 
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:45 PM
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My assumption would be that it can probably be grabbed with some pliers once the cover is off.. I hope!
 
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:47 PM
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Won't be driving that truck until repairs are done. If can't remove with pliers may have to drill and use an easy out, or other device for grabbing the remaining stub. PB Blaster. Always smells good in the morning. You are in the advanced placement class of the school of hard knocks.
 
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:47 PM
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Well, worst case scenario, you have to take the cover to a shop and have them remove the bolt it the bolt sheared off level with the cover and there is nothing to grab AND you know no one comfortable with drilling and extracting the bolt for you(if you can't do it).
 
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:01 PM
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If it's a long bolt it threads into the block, not the cover.

Now you will likely have to remove the sump (oil pan). The front cover has a couple studs on the bottom that mate with the front of the sump.

Normally the front cover can be removed by rocking the top toward you and pulling up to get the it, and its studs, out. With that broken bolt now forcing the front cover to come out straight , you'll have to remove the sump to get the bottom to come straight out too.

I know it might be hard to imagine what I'm describing, but just keep it in mind and you'll see what I mean.
 
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:38 PM
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Since you plan to tale off the oil pan, the approach to remove the crank pulley becomes easier, see photos from another member:
 
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  #27  
Old 03-23-2012, 02:10 PM
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hello, im new here i have a 98 disco 4.0 i found some coolant in my oil pan. it ran great minus the coolant leak. had a local shop insatll an intake gasket timing chain and gears as well as the t.c gasket. got a call back saying it was ready. when i went to go pick it up they told me i had a bad injector bad temp sensor an a code p1316 and it sounds like a deisel truck witch the engine never made noise befor, they said it was normal and it would go away three days later still louder then ever and has a miss fire. can anyone help me on the right track? lost tahoe disco....
 
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by EricTyrrell
If the bolts weren't tightened enough then tightening them with a torque wrench to the correct spec might work, but be careful or you'll strip the threads out and be in a real pickle.
Stripping the threads isn't THAT big a deal. Just put in a Time Sert insert and you are good to go.
 
  #29  
Old 03-23-2012, 02:53 PM
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Doesn't anyone just make a flywheel lock you can bolt to where the starter goes. This way you can lock your crank and taking the front bolt off the engine is a breeze.

I have one on my 928 that goes in a hole in the bell housing. Land Rover must surely have a tool like this to get the bolt out without jamming a 2x4 up against a connecting rod (gads!)
 
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Old 03-23-2012, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tahoe disco
hello, im new here i have a 98 disco 4.0 i found some coolant in my oil pan. it ran great minus the coolant leak. had a local shop insatll an intake gasket timing chain and gears as well as the t.c gasket. got a call back saying it was ready. when i went to go pick it up they told me i had a bad injector bad temp sensor an a code p1316 and it sounds like a deisel truck witch the engine never made noise befor, they said it was normal and it would go away three days later still louder then ever and has a miss fire. can anyone help me on the right track? lost tahoe disco....
Tahoe, start a new thread for your issues. Read instructions. Download the RAVE(see my signature).
 


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