Cooling system overhaul, why can't things go smoothly?
So soaked it in PB for 4 days, tore the rad out and fan for more room, whacked it with a hammer, heated it up and whack, bolt broke about an inch from the head into the timing chain cover so she's off for open hood surgery, I don't feel confident enough for bolt removal. Call me what you'd like.
So flushed the rad, changed upper and lower hoses, t-stat, started removing all the bolts on the water pump then wouldn't you know it, the long 1 that goes through the timing change cover into the block is frozen and more than likely, will snap off. So now I get to do it all over again when I have time and while I'm in there, I may as well do the upgraded timing chain and sprocket, gotta love our Disco's.
So flushed the rad, changed upper and lower hoses, t-stat, started removing all the bolts on the water pump then wouldn't you know it, the long 1 that goes through the timing change cover into the block is frozen and more than likely, will snap off. So now I get to do it all over again when I have time and while I'm in there, I may as well do the upgraded timing chain and sprocket, gotta love our Disco's.
Last edited by adigerol77; Aug 3, 2011 at 06:52 PM. Reason: Updated info
Use a propane or butane blower. You can get them at Lowes or Home Depot. Heat that bolt up real good and then keep spraying PB Blaster on it. Try to tighten just a little bit. Just to move it with the grain, until you haear a light tick noise. Heat it lightly and then try and back it out nice and slow. Tightening a bit will regroove the thread that is breaking.
Last edited by LRD2&ME; Jul 26, 2011 at 05:36 PM.
When I was in the Navy (1971-75) we were taught the easiest way to break torque on any fastener was to turn it in a tightening direction first, then start loosening it.
I still do that and it almost always works.
I still do that and it almost always works.


