Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Could Have Gone All Day Without Seeing That

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 11-21-2012, 04:45 PM
JPSpen's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Earthquakeville Oklahoma
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Could Have Gone All Day Without Seeing That

I finally got around to changing the oil in the Disco.. Now that it's running..

Took it for a short drive to warm it up... Boy that oil sure does come flying out of there.. Went everywhere and just about overwhelmed my drain pan..

Pulled the filter and put the GIANT Mann Filter on...

Took the oil cap off to fill her back up.. Splooge inside the top of the oil cap.. White/green... Not good splooge...

Why don't I just buy a Disco with EVERYTHING wrong with it...
I know.. At the end.. I'll know what I've got....
That's just wrong...I had hoped I was going to get to drive it a little while before having to do something like that job...

Dammit !

John

John
 
  #2  
Old 11-21-2012, 05:14 PM
Savannah Buzz's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Savannah Georgia
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 0
Received 82 Likes on 79 Posts
Default

The physics of the Rover drain are certainly set up for world class distance. If oil that drained did not look bad, perhaps some more diagnosis and operation is in order.
 
  #3  
Old 11-21-2012, 05:26 PM
Spike555's Avatar
Team Owner
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Posts: 26,212
Likes: 0
Received 95 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

That sucks.
It is a huge drain hole with alot of oil behind it.
 
  #4  
Old 11-21-2012, 06:14 PM
JPSpen's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Earthquakeville Oklahoma
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The old oil looked fine.. The coolant appears to be OK too..

So.. I'm in a wait and see mode... I know the truck wasn't run for quite a while before I got it.. Several years.. So that may have just been moisture that got in the old oil....

On cold start it does blow a little water vapor and makes a little puddle on the garage floor.. But that goes away once it's warmed up.. I'm sure that's normal as all the other cars do it too...

How warm should it get on the Ultragauge before I start to worry about things ??...I read it somewhere but can't find it now..

John
 
  #5  
Old 11-21-2012, 06:16 PM
Spike555's Avatar
Team Owner
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Posts: 26,212
Likes: 0
Received 95 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

220*F and you need to look for a place to pull over, turn the heat on full and let it idle to see if it cools off.
 
  #6  
Old 11-22-2012, 07:06 AM
mossmanxjt's Avatar
Mudding
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have seen some pretty nasty green-brown sludge about the consistency of pudding under the oil cap of my GF's Volkswagen. My first reaction was like yours, we took it to a shop and it turns out it was caused by condensation from a lot of mainly short trips in cold weather. I cleaned it out real good and it hasn't been back.
 
  #7  
Old 11-22-2012, 10:34 AM
JPSpen's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Earthquakeville Oklahoma
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have seen some pretty nasty green-brown sludge about the consistency of pudding under the oil cap of my GF's Volkswagen. My first reaction was like yours, we took it to a shop and it turns out it was caused by condensation from a lot of mainly short trips in cold weather. I cleaned it out real good and it hasn't been back.
That would sure be nice.. I've almost completely rebuilt the steering and suspension on this thing.. I'd like to drive it this winter...Although it doesn't appear that a head job is too bad since you don't have to fool with the timing/waterpump front part of the motor...Hope I'm right there..
Looks like the timing cover /water pump gaskets all come with the sump set..
The engine otherwise sounds fine so I'd be inclined to lift up the heads and slide some new gaskets in there and be done with it..That would get me a reseal on the whole top side of the motor then maybe I could do the bottom and front ends when the water pump gives trouble..I'd do the timing set as well at that time..Or, I could just tear into it and do it all....I dunno...

Guess I'll take her out for a little run.. I got a new battery tuesday as well...Voltage reading 13.8 on the ultragauge..

John
 

Last edited by JPSpen; 11-22-2012 at 10:38 AM.
  #8  
Old 11-22-2012, 10:35 AM
Jake1996D1's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ankeny IA
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Spike555
220*F and you need to look for a place to pull over, turn the heat on full and let it idle to see if it cools off.
Why would it cool down at idle? Less coolant and air circulating? Turn that thing off and leave the heat on high.
 
  #9  
Old 11-22-2012, 04:51 PM
JPSpen's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Earthquakeville Oklahoma
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Took it for about a half hour drive.. Didn't want to get too far from home..

Everything looks and sounds good.. Oil looks good. Coolant is up from the full starting point when it was cold.. I'll check it again when it cools down.

Only thing I found was maybe the fuel tank is not venting.. I was working on the fuel door and took the cap off to access the hinge screws..

I got a pretty good air pressure exchange when I loosened the cap..
Need to look into that...

John
 
  #10  
Old 11-22-2012, 08:46 PM
Savannah Buzz's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Savannah Georgia
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 0
Received 82 Likes on 79 Posts
Default

re: Why would it cool down at idle? Less coolant and air circulating? Turn that thing off and leave the heat on high.

If engine is already overheating, and you switch off, there is no coolant circulation and temps spike higher, then drop down. If you idle, there is minimal engine load, some circulation, and the heat being on helps a small bit. In some cars, the heater core is "off circuit" when not in use, and you can see several degrees drop when that extra water is tossed into the system. On a D2, and later D1's, there is not on/off coolant valve to the heater core, so it has flow all the time. Any extra cooling comes from the heater fan blowing across the core. And sometimes it is enough to help.
 


Quick Reply: Could Have Gone All Day Without Seeing That



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:43 AM.